[PORTRAIT CHALLENGE] Masterclass Lesson #5: Building up Depth With Glazes

The Acrylic Portrait Painting Challenge Masterclass Lesson #5 is out! 

In our last two lessons, I showed you how to cover your entire canvas with a series of three glazes covering the entire surface of the canvas as one layer.

Now, with this lesson, I’ll show you how to continue the process of adding layers on top of layers. We want to “rotate,” going back to the first glaze we did, and go on top of it with another glaze. And then to the next, and so on. Remember volleyball? It’s kind of like that. Every person gets a turn.

Here in the portrait using the acrylic glazing technique, every part of the picture gets a turn, having another glaze added to it. (There are some times when we break this rule, and I’ll show you that in the video lesson)

Here is where I’m at in the portrait, prior to this video lesson, after the work I did on Lesson #4.

 

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What we want to do at this stage:

Since we already have locked in the major differences in the color scheme and tonal value very simply, now we want to add more complexity to the painting.

We will be adding:

• depth to the dark value of the hat
• shadowed areas of the face
• and some of the darker areas within the background.

We will do this using the acrylic glazing technique, where we mix a TINY amount of acrylic paint into a LARGE amount of clear acrylic matte medium. It’s best to go very, very light when you start your painting. You should just barely see a difference.

Also, make sure you rinse your brush off thoroughly between glazes. Any extra water in the heel of the brush may cause your glazes to drip or get streaky.

 

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Here’s how to do it:

1. Mix your Glaze for Hat: Use small, fairly equal amounts of ultramarine blue and raw umber dark, and mix with a large amount of matte medium (5% paint to 95% medium) as shown in the video lesson. “Scoop” a large amount of glaze onto your 3/4″or 1″ flat brush. A few of the glazes will get a little darker, with ratios of as much as 30% paint to 70% medium. Make sure you watch the video to know where and when to change the ratio.
2. Apply the Glaze: Start on the left-hand side of hat and apply the glaze with firm pressure to cut along the edges. Spread the paint out toward the right, keeping a wet edge. Flip the brush over to make use of the paint that is on both sides.
3. Smooth Out the Glaze: Use diagonal criss-cross strokes to blend the glaze out rapidly. Use very light pressure at the end, just barely grazing your brush across the top. Don’t overwork the glaze. TIP: It dries quickly. If it starts to get blotchy or tacky, just leave it alone, or you’ll make it worse. You will be able to smooth it out later with more layers on top.
4. See Where Else You Can Employ the Glaze: Because you don’t want to waste the paint and medium, and to save time, use this same glaze on the background, adding as shown in the video lesson.
5. Add a Shadow Glaze to the Face. What we want to do is add a shadow on top of the shadow. Start at the left side of his face, underneath the hat, and cut up along the edge, working your way right, and bring the glaze down into the forehead wrinkles as I show in the video. Follow the distinct shapes and patterns that you see on your reference photo.

You will repeat this process another time, with some variations.

Ready to paint?

Now, before you begin (yes, I have to ask you again, just in case 🙂 )…

Are you registered for the challenge?

If not, register below for FREE and I’ll send you:

• a downloadable/ printable”Welcome Kit” with a Supplies List and a Palette Color Layout Guide.
• high-resolution images of the photo we’ll be painting from for this challenge.
• each new lesson that comes out in this Masterclass series.
• a link to my private Facebook group, where you can do this challenge with other artists, get feedback and help on your portrait, and not feel alone.

REGISTER TODAY. The challenge is ongoing, something you can do at your own pace. It’s not too late to enter!

Register for the Challenge!

 

Watch my in-depth Masterclass acrylic online tutorial below to see these steps in action.

After learning from this video, you’ll know exactly how to do it.

Make sure to watch the ENTIRE video first before diving into the painting. It will be worth it to do that. Then, I’d like you to go back and refer to whatever steps you need to as you paint. That way, you won’t miss any of the instruction and tips that will help you make this portrait your very best.

Here’s the video…

[PORTRAIT CHALLENGE] Masterclass Lesson #5: Building up Depth With Glazes

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Moving Forward…

Excellent job staying with me and the other artists for this challenging portrait! The acrylic glazing technique takes some getting used to, but once you really “get it” you will be able to paint with a freedom, confidence, and sense of realism that will keep you encouraged to keep on painting more and more.

In our next class, I’ll show you how to add more glazes and build up the skin tones. It’s something so many artists aspire to: create those lifelike skin tones that just look real. And now with a good foundation in place, we can do it!

I’ll see you in our next class! Until then be blessed in your painting and you and your family stay safe and healthy.

Yours for Better Portraits,

 

If you found this post helpful or encouraging, would you send it on ahead? Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! 

 

Let me know if you have any questions about the challenge that I didn’t answer. Leave your question in the comments below and I’ll get back to you!

 

[PORTRAIT CHALLENGE] Masterclass Lesson #4, LIVE: Establishing Your Color and Values

For a change of pace, we did the Acrylic Portrait Challenge Masterclass Lesson #4 as a LIVE class, and I’m excited to share it with you! 

In our last lesson, I showed you how to prepare your canvas for painting by whiting out the grid lines, sealing in and muting the sketch, and preparing your palette.

Finally, we began the actual painting process with a glaze of ultramarine blue (a glaze is a small amount of acrylic paint mixed into a large amount of clear acrylic medium, usually matte medium).

Now, in this lesson (recorded LIVE), I will show you how to add the next two glazes, which will nearly cover the entire canvas with one layer.

Whereas the sketch is the actual foundation for the painting, this first layer is very important. It is like the floor joists when a house is built. The rest of the structure attaches to that, and so housebuilders take extra time to make sure they do it correctly. If they don’t they’ll end up with a structure that will end up sagging years, or even worse, collapsing!

In the same way, we want to make sure we have this first layer done correctly. Don’t feel nervous about it. You can still fix a painting that hasn’t been started correctly, and end up with a truly realistic acrylic portrait. It just will take you more time and effort to correct, and so it’s best to avoid that hassle if possible.

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What we want to do at this stage:

Our main goal right now is to establish the main value and color scheme of the portrait, simultaneously. We want to “lock-in” the contrast between the lights and dark values, paying attention to their specific edges, boundaries, and shapes. If you did the sketch according to Lesson #2,  then you will know almost exactly where to place your initial glazes, because your sketch tells you where to put it.

We also want to observe the major differences in color within the reference photo, simplify it to “warm and cool” tones and use our inital glazes to plot that out. Then, future layers will be added on top of them, getting more and more complex as we go along.

But the initial glaze will serve us well.

It’s like how a major highway was often once a foot trail, then a cowpath, then a dirt road, then a paved road, and finally a highway. It’s a lot easier to upgrade a road, than to try to build a new one. You’d have to bulldoze trees, cut through rocks, level the land, and even remove homes if necessary.

In the same way, with the glazing technique, we are getting the compounded effect of each previous layer adding richness and depth to the ones that come after them. That’s why you want to start off right.

Again, as I’ve said in the last lesson: begin the painting lightly. Much lighter than you think. And certainly more than you’re used to painting, if you’ve painted for a while. If you just barely see a difference in this first layer, you’re doing it exactly right!

Let’s dive into the process…

 

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Here’s how to do it:

1. Mix your Glaze for the Skin Tone Foundation Layer: Use a small amount of burnt sienna and raw umber dark, and mix with a large amount of matte medium (5% paint to 95% medium) as shown in the video lesson. “Scoop” a large amount of glaze onto your 3/4″or 1″ flat brush.
2. Apply the Glaze: Start on the left-hand side of the man’s face, and apply the glaze with firm pressure to cut along the edge of the ear, neck, and along the collar. Spread the paint out toward the right, keeping a wet edge. Flip the brush over to make use of the paint that is on both sides.
3. Smooth Out the Glaze: Use diagonal criss-cross strokes to blend the glaze out rapidly. Use very light pressure at the end, just barely grazing your brush across the top. Don’t overwork the glaze. TIP: It dries quickly. If it starts to get blotchy or tacky, just leave it alone, or you’ll make it worse. You will be able to smooth it out later with more layers on top.
4. Mix the Glaze for the Background Foundation Layer: Now, if you followed my steps from Lesson #3, you should have an ultramarine blue glaze already on the background’s darkest values. This glaze will go on top of that, and will start the basic color for the mid-tone area in the right direction. Take a small amount of raw sienna as the base, smaller amount of raw umber (or raw umber dark) and and even smaller amount of ultramarine blue, and mix them slowly into the matte medium as I show in the video.
5. Add the Glaze and Smooth it Out. Apply this similarly as the skin tone glaze, but this time, you only need to cut up along the edge of objects with very light tonal value, such as the shirt or the illuminated portion of the man’s face. The glaze can go on top of the hat, because the final tonal value of that area will be so dark, so there’s no need to worry about trying to “keep within the lines” there.

Ready to paint?

Now, before you begin (yes, I have to ask you again, just in case 🙂 )…

Are you registered for the challenge?

If not, register below for FREE and I’ll send you:

• a downloadable/ printable”Welcome Kit” with a Supplies List and a Palette Color Layout Guide.
• high-resolution images of the photo we’ll be painting from for this challenge.
• each new lesson that comes out in this Masterclass series.
• a link to my private Facebook group, where you can do this challenge with other artists, get feedback and help on your portrait, and not feel alone.

REGISTER TODAY. The challenge is ongoing, something you can do at your own pace. It’s not too late to enter!

Register for the Challenge!

 

Watch my in-depth Masterclass acrylic online tutorial below to see these steps in action.

After learning from this video, you’ll know exactly how to do it.

Make sure to watch the ENTIRE video first before diving into the painting. It will be worth it to do that. Then, I’d like you to go back and refer to whatever steps you need to as you paint. That way, you won’t miss any of the instruction and tips that will help you make this portrait your very best.

Here’s the video…

[PORTRAIT CHALLENGE] Masterclass Lesson #4, LIVE: Establishing Your Color and Values

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Moving Forward…

If you made it this far, congratulations! It’s not easy to start a painting so light, when your natural instinct is paint thick and dark right away. So, if you’ve followed my steps as best you can, high fives and hat’s off to you! Stick with this process, and you will be able to paint more confidently and realistically than you ever have before.

Now, since we have the complete glaze foundation work done on the painting—the hat, the face, the shirt, the background all has paint on it, we can move on and add more and more glazes—building up richness, depth, and detail. The painting will look more and more amazing each time we add another layer. There may be a few times where you’ll hit a few rough spots, but by God’s grace, I’ll show you how to navigate those challenges and finish your portrait well.

I’ll see you in our next class! Until then be blessed in your painting and may God guide your every brushstroke!

Yours for Better Portraits,

 

If you found this post helpful or encouraging, would you send it on ahead? Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! 

 

Let me know if you have any questions about the challenge that I didn’t answer. Leave your question in the comments below and I’ll get back to you!

 

[PORTRAIT CHALLENGE] Masterclass Lesson #3: Beginning Your Painting Lightly and Confidently

Masterclass Lesson #3 for the Acrylic Portrait Painting Challenge is open!

In this lesson, you will learn how to slowly transition out of the sketch process and into the painting with confidence.

Instead of the typical way of painting—dumping a bunch of paint onto the canvas and hoping something good comes out of it, you will strategically begin your portrait with light, translucent glazing layers.

If you follow the heart of my method, you will not feel like the painting is out of control. You will be guiding the painting to a successful finish, rather the painting taking you and your emotions for a roller-coaster ride.

It takes patience.

So please don’t jump ahead, even though it feels you’re starting so slowly.

You’ll find that once we get the painting moving in the right direction, it will begin to take off, just like a car as it goes into higher gear. Your layers and brushstrokes will get bolder as you hit the midpoint of your painting, like a climax in a good movie or book. You’ll be moving much faster then!

Finally, you’ll slow down again.

You’ll gently add nuances and final touches to bring the portrait home and make it a masterpiece.

 

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In our previous step, I showed you how to sketch your canvas to create a firm foundation for your painting. Not perfect, but accurate.

Now, in this lesson, we will finally get to the painting!

 

Here’s how to do it:

1. White-out the Grid Lines. Use pure titanium white paint, undiluted, to cover your grid lines, so you don’t see them in the final painting.
2. Seal in the Sketch. Use pure matte medium to seal in your sketch so you can paint over it without messing up your detail work and muddying your paint.
3. Mute the Sketch (Create a toning layer or “ground.”) Make your sketch lines softer and subdued so that you won’t have to work so hard to conceal them with more paint layers later.
4. Prepare Your Palette. Arrange your palette colors for this painting as shown on your Palette Layout Guide (last page of the Welcome Kit) so that all the colors are arranged in such a way so that the ones you need most are closest to you and if they bleed into each other, they won’t muddy each other up.
5. Add the First Glazing Layer. Start very simple with one basic color mixed into matte medium to make a VERY light glaze (semi-transparent/ translucent) concentrating on your darkest value and cool tones at the same time. This is the blocking-in, or underpainting layer, so it doesn’t need to be dark or complicated.

Ready to paint?

Now, before we begin (yes, I have to ask you again, just in case 🙂 )…

Are you registered for the challenge?

If not, register below for FREE and I’ll send you:

• a downloadable/ printable”Welcome Kit” with a Supplies List and a Palette Color Layout Guide.
• high-resolution images of the photo we’ll be painting from for this challenge.
• each new lesson that comes out in this Masterclass series.
• a link to my private Facebook group, where you can do this challenge with other artists, get feedback and help on your portrait, and not feel alone.

REGISTER TODAY. The challenge is ongoing, something you can do at your own pace. It’s not too late to enter!

Register for the Challenge!

 

Watch my in-depth Masterclass acrylic online tutorial below to see these steps in action.

After learning from this video, you’ll know exactly how to do it.

Make sure to watch the ENTIRE video first before diving into the painting. It will be worth it to do that. Then, I’d like you to go back and refer to whatever steps you need to as you paint. That way, you won’t miss any of the instruction and tips that will help you make this portrait your very best.

Here’s the video…

[PORTRAIT CHALLENGE] Masterclass Lesson #3: Beginning Your Portrait Painting Lightly and Confidently

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Moving Forward…

The largest challenge of the glazing technique is overcoming the tendency to go dark and thick with your paint. But if you stick with this, even beyond this portrait, you’ll find the technique “clicking” and you’ll understand how it can help you to create a painting with incredible luminosity, smooth shading, depth, and detail.

In other words, a portrait that will “wow” others and you’ll feel proud to have created. And even more, a portrait you can give as a gift,  hang on your wall (or someone else’s) and will be enjoyed for years to come.

There you have it! Now you know exactly how to begin your portrait lightly, and confidently. The next step is to build up depth with more glazes and see the amazing portrait fade in, slowly materialize before your eyes.

I’ll see you in our next class! Until then be blessed in your painting and may God guide your every brushstroke!

Yours for Better Portraits,

 

If you found this post helpful or encouraging, would you send it on ahead? Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! 

 

Let me know if you have any questions about the challenge that I didn’t answer. Leave your question in the comments below and I’ll get back to you!

 

Portrait Painting Challenge, Q & A

It’s been an exciting week so far with so many people signing up for the Acrylic Portrait Painting Challenge! 

With that, I’ve received a lot of questions. I want to take a moment and answer some of them, so that if you it’s your question too, well, you’ll have an answer! Some of the questions are ones that I am anticipating as well….

1. When does the challenge actually start? 

Right now, people in my Facebook group are voting for their favorite image until tonight. Once we have the final reference photo, selected, I’ll put a grid overlay on it, and then email it to you here tomorrow (4/8). We will begin the next day, Thursday, April 9th.

2. What if I’m not on Facebook? Can I still participate?​

Yes! You can still paint along with us, and keep in touch with me via email. Click here to REGISTER and get your “Welcome Kit” with the supplies list. It’s not too late.

3. What if the photo I like most doesn’t get picked?

Well, I set this challenge up in a democratic way, so that everyone would get involved and vote collectively as a group. Unfortunately, we won’t all get to paint a portrait from the photo we liked most, myself included. But I think we can still recognize the value of painting the final choice image, because all of them are fantastic options, with their own unique qualities.

Also: I will be saving these “runner-up” images for a future challenge or painting class. So I think we’ll have another shot at painting them!

4. Where are you posting the step-by-step demonstration videos? 

I will be posting them to Realistic Acrylic Portrait School, on my blog. The videos will be hosted on my YouTube channel, Fine Art by Matt Philleo

5. Is this free? 

Yes, the challenge, the Welcome Kit, the video lessons, all of that is free. I want to bless you during this challenging time and allow as many to participate as possible. I will have some additional benefits for you if you are a Realistic Acrylic All-Access Member. If you want to check that out and consider joining if you aren’t already a member, click here to learn more.

6. I can’t find some of the colors on the supplies list. Are there substitutes? 

Yes. If you look at the last page of my Welcome Kit, you will see an image of my palette, with all the colors arranged it. Look at it and match up a color that you have on hand that looks close. For example, Raw Umber mixed with a little Ivory Black should work as a substitute for Raw Umber Dark.

7. I can’t find Organic Red Orange on Nova Color’s website. Where is it? 

That is my mistake. It is actually called, “Organic Pyrrole Orange.” I have called it Organic Red Orange for the longest time, because it is truly a red-orange pigment, and it differentiates it from other straight red or orange colors on my palette.

8. How often are you going to post instructional videos? 

On an almost daily basis. You will be hearing from me very often. If for some reason you feel you are getting too many emails, you can opt-out of the challenge here, and I will not email you anything more about the challenge, no hard feelings. 🙂 And you will still be on my art tips newsletter.

9. What if I get behind on the challenge?

No worries. This is not a race. Think of it more like a group painting party, but where the doors never close. 🙂 You can just keep working at your own pace. The videos will still be there for you to access later.

10. When will the challenge end? 

I am shooting to have it done by the end of April, but we are getting started a bit later than I thought. So it might go into the first week of May. I’ll be keeping in touch with you to let you know when we get closer to that time.

Okay, that’s it for now!

I hope this clears up any questions you have. But if you have more questions, shoot me an email and let me know. I’ll be happy to answer you personally.

I’m so excited to start the challenge with you. Look for an email from me tomorrow with the announcement on the reference photo we will be painting from, and a downloadable version with a grid overlay that you can paint from.

Look forward to seeing you in the challenge!

Yours for Better Portraits,

If you found this post helpful or encouraging, would you send it on ahead? Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! 

Let me know if you have any questions about the challenge that I didn’t answer. Leave your question in the comments below and I’ll get back to you!

5 Steps on How to Paint a Vibrant Acrylic Portrait

Learn the classical glazing technique for depth and luminosity

Acrylic painting is an exciting medium known for its versatility, but achieving the depth and vibrancy often associated with oil paintings can seem challenging. However, by employing the classical glazing technique, a method favored by old masters like Rembrandt, Titian, and Vermeer then you can produce rich, luminous results with acrylics. This blog post will guide you through 5 essential steps to create a vibrant acrylic portrait using this time-tested method.

This tutorial shows the entire process of painting a portrait. Here are the steps I show in this tutorial:

1. Start with a Detailed Sketch.
2. Apply the Initial Glaze Layers
3. Layer and Build Gradation
4. Introduce Vibrant Colors
5.  Focus on Nuances and Details

1. Start with a Detailed Sketch

Every masterpiece begins with a solid foundation, and in portrait painting, that foundation is the sketch. Before you start adding color to your canvas, take time to create a detailed and accurate sketch of your subject. For this project, an 11×14 portrait of three girls in a park serves as an example.

By using a sepia-tone prismacolor colored pencil, you can establish proportions and likeness. Accuracy in this stage helps set the stage for a calm and confident painting process. Once your sketch is ready, seal it with a clear matte medium. This acts as a protective layer, ensuring that the pencil lines remain intact as you begin adding paint.

• Tip: Use a flat brush (¾ inch to 1 inch wide) to apply the matte medium. Make sure the application is smooth and even, allowing it to dry thoroughly before proceeding to the next step.

2. Apply the Initial Glaze Layers

The heart of this painting method lies in glazing, where thin, transparent layers of paint are applied over one another to build depth and richness. Unlike traditional opaque acrylic painting, the classical glazing technique requires a mixture of 95% matte medium to 5% paint. This creates a very light wash that enables you to gradually build colors without overwhelming the canvas.

Begin by mixing raw umber dark with ultramarine blue to create lifelike skin tones and shadow areas. These first layers will be almost imperceptible, but they provide a strong base for the layers that follow.

• Tip: The first layers of glaze should be incredibly light. This allows for adjustments in color or value without the need to paint over mistakes. The glazing method helps avoid the common frustration of muddy colors often encountered in acrylic painting.

3. Layer and Build Gradation

Once the initial glaze is applied, it’s time to focus on layering. As you build up more layers, you’ll notice how the painting starts to take on a more vibrant and realistic appearance. The goal here is to create a seamless transition between light and dark values, blending tones smoothly to replicate the natural shading found in your reference photo.

In this step, more raw umber dark and ultramarine blue are used to deepen the shadows on the forehead and hair. This layering process helps achieve the subtle gradation required for realistic portraits.

• Technique: As you layer, ensure that each glaze is thin and transparent. Too much paint in a single layer can cause the painting to look heavy and lose the delicate transparency that glazing provides.

4. Introduce Vibrant Colors

To make your portrait truly vibrant, it’s essential to introduce bold colors into the glazing process. In this example, a dash of Liquitex hot pink was added to the dress to intensify the color and give it a glowing effect. The key is to use these bright colors sparingly, applying them in thin layers so that they blend harmoniously with the existing hues.

When applying glazes to areas like the clothing, make sure to leave the white areas exposed. This technique, known as “preserving the luminosity,” ensures that highlights remain bright and eye-catching, adding to the overall vibrancy of the portrait.

• Tip: When adding vibrant glazes, thin the paint with medium and apply it cautiously. This helps prevent overpowering the existing layers while enhancing the color saturation.

5. Focus on Nuances and Details

The final step in this process involves refining the smaller details and nuances that bring a portrait to life. For example, the highlights in the hair, shadows in the creases of clothing, and the subtle changes in skin tone around the eyes require careful attention.

In the final layers, you can also experiment with a semi-opaque mixture, using titanium white, raw umber dark, and organic red-orange to add warmth and depth to the skin tones. With each new layer, the portrait takes on more life, depth, and realism. At this stage, it’s important to use more opaque layers sparingly, as glazing is best suited for large areas, while more detailed parts, such as fingernails or eyes, may benefit from a slightly thicker application of paint.

• Technique: If you notice that certain areas appear too flat or lack depth, consider adding a dark glaze to emphasize the shadows. Because mixing ultramarine blue with raw umber dark creates a rich, deep tone perfect for refining these darker areas without relying on black paint.

Conclusion: Patience Is Key

As you add each layer of glaze, then always remember that patience is vital. Because acrylic glazing requires multiple layers, sometimes ten or more to achieve the desired depth and luminosity. Each layer builds upon the last, contributing to the portrait’s final vibrancy. While it may take time, the results are well worth the effort.

By following these five steps, you can create a stunning acrylic portrait with vibrant colors and lifelike depth, all while employing the classical glazing technique favored by the old masters.

For further resources and guides, visit realisticacrylic.com and check out my free courses to enhance your acrylic painting journey.

LEARN MORE

• How to Paint Foliage Using the Acrylic Glazing Technique
• How to Trace for an Accurate Portrait Sketch
• How to Paint Realistic Eyes in Your Acrylic Portrait
• How to Add Raw Umber Dark & Ultramarine Blue to Your Portrait
• How to Make Your Own Raw Umber Dark
• How to Paint Realistic Trees & Grass in Your Acrylic
• How to Block In Skin Tone Values Using Glazing Technique
• How to Paint Vibrant Reds in Your Acrylic Portrait
• How to Glaze Background Colors & More Acrylic Portrait
• How to Paint White Clothing in Your Acrylic Portrait
• How to Easily Transition from a Sketch to a Painting
• How to Block In Shading & Skin Tones in Your Acrylic
• How to Build Up Color on Acrylic Pet Portrait
• How to Build Up Form on Clothing with Acrylic
• How to Paint Dark Clothing Using Acrylic Glazing Technique
• How to Paint a 24 x 30 Acrylic With 30 People
• How to Do Smooth Shading with Acrylic
• How to Sketch an Acrylic Portrait with a Grid

Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!

I’d love to hear your thoughts about this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.

If you’d like to learn more, sign up for my free email tips and video class today.

Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits With My Free Mini-Video Course!

Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me.  I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.  

 

P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!

 

How to Paint a Realistic Mustache in Acrylic Portrait

Step-by-step guide to paint a lifelike mustache in your acrylic portrait with ease.

Achieving realism in a portrait requires attention to detail, especially when it comes to facial features like mustaches. In this guide, we will explore the step-by-step process of how to paint a realistic mustache in acrylic portrait.

Preparation: Setting the Foundation

Before diving into the mustache details, it is essential to have a strong foundation. This means the portrait’s basic values and underpainting should already be established. The key here is to ensure the right light and shadow balance, especially around the mouth and upper lip area.

Materials Needed:

• Titanium white: To create highlights.
• Raw umber dark: For adding depth to shadows.
• Indian yellow: To create natural warm tones.
• Matte medium: To thin the paint for smooth application.
• Size 8 round brush: Ideal for detailing and creating fine lines.

Step 1: Start with Base Layers

Begin by thinning out your titanium white with matte medium. Then add a small amount of raw umber dark and Indian yellow to create a subtle hue. Also, using your size 8 round brush, you can bring it to a chisel edge for precise strokes.

It is important to start with some base layers of paint before adding any detail. Because these layers help create a three-dimensional effect and establish the direction and placement of the mustache.

Step 2: Block in the Mustache Hairs

Once the base is set, it’s time to start picking out individual hairs. This layer is more about refining the mustache’s texture and creating a natural flow. The technique is to avoid making the hair uniform. Instead, examine your reference photo carefully and note the irregularities and directions in which the hairs grow.

When painting more lifelike, it varies on the brushstrokes in different directions. And then you can have some hairs cross over each other or even extend past the upper lip slightly.

Tip: Don’t aim for perfection with each hair. What matters is the overall impression of the mustache.

Step 3: Focus on Highlights and Shadows

During this stage, the mustache will need to appear more defined. Then pay close attention to where light is hitting the hair and where shadows are forming.

• Highlights: For the lighter hairs, use a mix of titanium white with a touch of raw umber to avoid making them too bright. And then adding matte medium will create a translucent effect that gives the hairs a softer appearance. This is essential for portraying finer hairs and giving the mustache a more natural look.
• Shadows: Towards the bottom of the mustache, each hair will cast a shadow on the hair beneath it. This can be achieved by mixing raw umber dark with the base color, creating a more pronounced shadow effect.

Step 4: Add Nuances for Depth

As you continue, it is also crucial to add some depth and nuance by including small pockets where the skin beneath the mustache is visible. This gives the mustache a more realistic appearance, as it doesn’t look like a flat shape, but rather, individual hairs growing from the skin.

Tip: To avoid the mustache looking too uniform, ensure there are spots where the skin shows through the hair. This not only creates depth but also keeps the painting from appearing too rigid.

Step 5: Blending and Detailing

If any part of the mustache appears too harsh, lightly dab the area with your finger or blend it with a dry brush. Then the idea is to soften any overly defined strokes and make the hairs appear more naturally integrated into the face.

Additionally, darken a few sections towards the edges where the hairs thicken. Adjust the tones subtly to suggest the transition from thicker hairs at the center to finer, lighter hairs towards the outer edges.

Step 6: Final Highlights for Depth

In the last stages, take straight titanium white and add a few highlights to the topmost layer of the mustache. These highlights will catch the light, adding a touch of realism. However, be mindful not to overdo this step.

Placing these small highlights on the lighter side of the mustache (usually where light is hitting) will add depth and dimension. Focus on areas where the mustache might catch the most light, such as the tips of individual hairs or the outer edge.

Technique Recap: Important Tips

• Use a Reference Photo: Always have a clear reference photo when painting a mustache. This helps you capture the unique characteristics and flow of the mustache, ensuring it looks natural.
• Layer Your Paint: Don’t rush into details too quickly. Begin with base layers to build up depth gradually. Adding layers of thin, translucent paint will help create the texture and realism you’re aiming for.
• Mix Colors for Realism: Avoid using pure white or pure black. Mix titanium white with raw umber or Indian yellow to soften the brightness, and add raw umber dark to create natural shadows.
• Vary Hair Directions: A mustache doesn’t have hairs growing in just one direction. Ensure that the hairs have some variation by crosshatching and layering.
• Thin the Paint: Use matte medium to thin the paint. This not only helps in creating translucent effects but also prevents the painting from looking too heavy or artificial.
• Dab for Subtle Effects: When blending, gently dab with your finger or a clean brush. This softens the edges and makes the mustache look more organic.

Conclusion

Painting a realistic mustache in an acrylic portrait involves patience and attention to detail. Then, by focusing on layering, highlights, shadows, and texture, you can create a lifelike mustache that adds character to your portrait. Remember, then the key is in the subtle nuances the tiny details that make the painting come alive. So next time you’re working on an acrylic portrait, use these techniques to bring out the best in your subject’s mustache.

If this tutorial was helpful, don’t forget to leave a comment or ask any questions. Happy painting!

By following these tips, you’ll be able to paint a realistic mustache that enhances the overall look of your acrylic portrait.

If you’re looking for more instructional videos on how to improve your acrylic painting, visit www.realisticacrylic.com for more tutorials and check out my free courses here. .

LEARN MORE

• How to Paint Foliage Using the Acrylic Glazing Technique
• How to Trace for an Accurate Portrait Sketch
• How to Paint Realistic Eyes in Your Acrylic Portrait
• How to Add Raw Umber Dark & Ultramarine Blue to Your Portrait
• How to Make Your Own Raw Umber Dark
• How to Paint Realistic Trees & Grass in Your Acrylic
• How to Block In Skin Tone Values Using Glazing Technique
• How to Paint Vibrant Reds in Your Acrylic Portrait
• How to Glaze Background Colors & More Acrylic Portrait
• How to Paint White Clothing in Your Acrylic Portrait
• How to Easily Transition from a Sketch to a Painting
• How to Block In Shading & Skin Tones in Your Acrylic
• How to Build Up Color on Acrylic Pet Portrait
• How to Build Up Form on Clothing with Acrylic
• How to Paint Dark Clothing Using Acrylic Glazing Technique
• How to Paint a 24 x 30 Acrylic With 30 People
• How to Do Smooth Shading with Acrylic
• How to Sketch an Acrylic Portrait with a Grid

Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!

I’d love to hear your thoughts about this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.

If you’d like to learn more, sign up for my free email tips and video class today.

Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits With My Free Mini-Video Course!

Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me.  I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.  

 

P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!

 

Why Teeth are Not White and How to Paint Them Realistically

Discover why teeth in portraits should not be painted white and learn how to achieve realistic results in acrylic painting

When painting portraits, especially in acrylics, artists often encounter a common misconception: that teeth should be painted pure white. However, this approach can lead to unrealistic and unnatural results. In this blog post, we’ll explore why teeth are not actually white and how to paint them realistically in your portraits. This guide will help you create a more lifelike appearance in your acrylic paintings by adjusting the way you depict teeth.

Why Are Teeth Not White in Portraits?

One of the biggest mistakes beginner artists make is painting teeth too white in their portraits. While it’s easy to assume that teeth are white, the reality is far from it. Teeth are not naturally as bright as we imagine them. When you compare a piece of white paper next to the teeth in your reference photo, you will notice a significant difference in value. Even in the best lighting conditions, teeth tend to appear darker due to various factors.

Light and Shadows Affect Teeth Color

A key reason why teeth are not as white as you think is because of the shadows cast by the mouth, lips, and other surrounding features. When you observe a person, you’ll notice that these shadows darken the teeth significantly. Even in bright lighting, the teeth may still appear off-white rather than pure white. For instance, mustaches or beards can further reduce the perceived brightness of teeth, making them look even darker.

How to Paint Teeth Realistically in Acrylic

When painting teeth in a portrait, it’s essential to capture this balance between light and shadow. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you create a more natural depiction of teeth:

1. Analyze Your Reference Photo

Before applying any paint, take a close look at your reference photo. Hold a piece of white paper up to the teeth and notice the difference in value. This will give you a clear idea of how much darker the teeth are compared to pure white. Observing this contrast will help you determine the right shades to use in your painting.

2. Use Off-White Tones

Instead of using pure white, opt for off-white tones to depict the teeth. Colors such as a soft ivory, light gray, or a pale beige are excellent choices. Mixing a touch of raw umber or burnt sienna into your white paint can help you achieve a more realistic tone for the teeth.

3. Add Shadows for Depth

The shadows cast by the lips and mouth should not be overlooked. Use darker tones around the edges of the teeth to emphasize the depth created by these shadows. You can blend a mix of dark brown or blue-gray tones to add subtle shadows, making the teeth recede naturally into the mouth.

4. Highlight Selectively

While teeth are not pure white, they do have highlights in certain areas where light directly hits them. These highlights can be painted with white, but should only be applied sparingly. Focus on small areas, such as the tips of the teeth or the spots where light reflects the most. By adding these highlights carefully, you’ll make the teeth appear shiny and dimensional without them looking unnaturally bright.

5. Blend for a Smooth Transition

Teeth have a smooth surface, so it’s important to blend the colors and shades gently. Avoid harsh lines or abrupt transitions between shadows and highlights. Use a soft brush to blend the darker tones into the lighter areas for a seamless finish.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

When it comes to painting teeth realistically, there are a few common pitfalls to watch out for:

• Avoid using pure white for the entire tooth surface. This can make the teeth appear flat and unnatural.
• Don’t ignore the shadows around the mouth and lips. These shadows are what give the teeth depth and realism.
• Don’t over-highlight the teeth. Applying too much white will make them stand out unnaturally. Only use highlights in select areas where light naturally hits.

Tips for Achieving Lifelike Results

Here are some additional tips to ensure your teeth look realistic in your acrylic portrait:

• Layer your colors: Start with darker tones for the base of the teeth and gradually layer lighter shades on top to build depth.
• Use small brushes: Precision is key when painting teeth, so opt for small, fine-tipped brushes to work on the details.
• Work with a reference: Always keep a reference photo handy to guide you in accurately capturing the teeth’s value and shading.

Conclusion

Teeth in a portrait should never be painted stark white. Understanding the role of light, shadows, and the natural off-white color of teeth is crucial for creating a realistic portrait. By following the techniques outlined in this post, using off white tones, incorporating shadows, and highlighting selectively, you can paint teeth that look natural and lifelike in your acrylic portraits.

For more tips and tutorials on painting realistic acrylic portraits, visit RealisticAcrylic.com and check out our other tutorials for more insights into mastering portrait painting.

As you can see, teeth are darker value, and you can often achieve it by using a mixture of raw umber and titanium white for the shadows, raw sienna-titanium white for the mid-tones and titanium white-slight bit of indian yellow only for the highlights.

It all comes down to painting correct tonal value–that is, the correct level of light and dark. If you’d like a tool to help you with that, then I have something for you…

I created a tool that you can use to measure the tonal value of any area of your portrait in question against your reference photo. I call it the “Value Checker.” Download and print a copy for yourself today and apply it to the portrait you are currently working on. And you will see an immediate improvement in the realism!

Get the full-resolution 8 1/2″ x 11″ version below…

Get the Value Checker Tool

Let me know how this helps! What did you think of this tip on NOT painting teeth white? Did it surprise you?

I’d love to hear how your art journey is going. Shoot me an email and let me know. Or leave a comment. Be blessed in your portrait painting!

Yours for Better Portraits,

Matt

If you found this post helpful or encouraging, would you send it on ahead? Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! 

 

Quick Tip to Set Up a Canvas in Your Easel

Have you ever been frustrated trying to paint the edges of your canvas on an acrylic portrait, because the easel clamps are in the way?

You try to paint the background smoothly, with gestural strokes that flow off the edge of the painting but are inhibited by the easel itself. Let me show you a quick tip to overcome that problem.

 

How do YOU keep your paintings in place on your easel, and yet make it possible to paint all edges easily? Let me know. Always on the lookout for good ideas. 🙂

 

 

 

4 Questions About Acrylic Portrait Painting, Answered

Recently, I was asked some questions about acrylic portrait painting. I hope the answers I shared with this artist can be of help to you as well.

How to Paint Realistic Reflections on Eyeglasses in Acrylic Portrait

It’s tricky to paint reflections on eyeglasses.

Creating realistic reflections on eyeglasses can significantly enhance the depth and authenticity of an acrylic portrait. In this blog post, you will learn how to paint realistic reflections on eyeglasses in acrylic portrait and then along with tips for mixing colors, layering, and applying highlights. Because these methods will help elevate your acrylic painting skills and bring your portraits to life.

Understanding Reflections in Eyeglasses

Reflections in eyeglasses are not just simple overlays; yet they play a crucial role in conveying the personality and emotion of your subject. Of course, observing how light interacts with surfaces is essential. Hence, it is vital to capture the subtle nuances of reflections to create a convincing portrayal.

Preparing Your Workspace

Before beginning, ensure your workspace is organized. Then have your reference photo at hand, and gather all necessary materials:

• Acrylic paints: Titanium white, raw umber dark, ivory black, burnt sienna, and alizarin crimson
• Brushes: A round size 8 brush for detail work
• Matte medium for thinning paint
• Palette for mixing colors
• A clean rag for touch-ups

Step-by-Step Techniques

Setting Up the Reference Photo
Zoom in on your reference photo to clearly see the reflections in the glasses. Then identify key areas where reflections appear and note their shape and color.

Mixing the Initial Color
Begin with a mixture of titanium white and raw umber dark to create a toned-down white. Because this will avoid stark brightness that can look unnatural, thin this mixture with matte medium to achieve fluidity.

Painting the Reflections

In this case, use the round brush to carefully apply the mixed color to the upper corners of the glasses. This is where the most pronounced reflections typically occur.

Just observe the shape of the reflections in your reference photo and replicate that shape on your canvas and then using different angles of strokes will help smooth out the paint.

Adding Depth with Multiple Layers

Allow the initial layer to dry before adding more highlights. While layering is essential for creating depth.

Mix a slightly lighter shade then by adding more titanium white to your previous mixture. Apply this lighter color to the same areas, focusing on the edges where the light hits most.

Incorporating Background Elements

To make the reflections believable, you need to incorporate faint outlines of elements visible in the background. This adds realism without overwhelming the portrait.

So use a diluted version of your mixture to achieve this effect, ensuring that the reflections do not detract from the subject’s features.

Enhancing the Frame of the Glasses

The frame should also reflect light. And then apply highlights using the same mixture to the inner edges of the frame.

Gradually build up the highlight by layering, allowing each layer to dry before adding the next.

Adding Shadows for Realism

Shadows are critical for grounding the glasses. When mixing burnt sienna and alizarine crimson, you can create a warm shadow color.

Apply this color underneath the glasses and around the frames to suggest depth and interaction with the face.

Refining the Details

After allowing the previous layers to dry, return with titanium white mixed with raw umber dark for the final highlights.

Focus on adding subtle highlights on the corners of the reflections. Use a very light touch to maintain the transparency of the glass.

Final Touches

Once all elements have dried, step back to evaluate your painting. Then adjust any areas that may need further highlights or shadows to ensure balance and realism. Because this reflective interplay between light and dark is what ultimately gives your portrait a lifelike quality.

Conclusion

Painting realistic reflections on eyeglasses requires patience and practice. So by following these techniques, artists can enhance their acrylic portraits with depth and clarity. Remember also that observation is key; study how light interacts with different surfaces to improve your skill. With dedication, anyone can learn how to paint realistic reflections that bring their acrylic portraits to life.

Tips for Painting Reflections:

• Layering is Key: Always allow layers to dry before adding more to achieve depth.
• Use a Light Touch: When applying highlights, a gentle hand creates a more realistic effect.
• Study Real Life: Observe real eyeglasses in different lighting conditions to understand how reflections work.

For further resources and guides, visit realisticacrylic.com and check out my free courses to enhance your acrylic painting journey.

This is a 16 x 20 acrylic on canvas commissioned portrait, and I just delivered it to the client today. She loved it. It was a memoriam portrait, so I pray it will bring comfort to all who see it.

Have a blessed day, and may God use your artistic gifts to bless people far and wide.

LEARN MORE

• How to Paint Foliage Using the Acrylic Glazing Technique
• How to Trace for an Accurate Portrait Sketch
• How to Paint Realistic Eyes in Your Acrylic Portrait
• How to Add Raw Umber Dark & Ultramarine Blue to Your Portrait
• How to Make Your Own Raw Umber Dark
• How to Paint Realistic Trees & Grass in Your Acrylic
• How to Block In Skin Tone Values Using Glazing Technique
• How to Paint Vibrant Reds in Your Acrylic Portrait
• How to Glaze Background Colors & More Acrylic Portrait
• How to Paint White Clothing in Your Acrylic Portrait
• How to Easily Transition from a Sketch to a Painting
• How to Block In Shading & Skin Tones in Your Acrylic
• How to Build Up Color on Acrylic Pet Portrait
• How to Build Up Form on Clothing with Acrylic
• How to Paint Dark Clothing Using Acrylic Glazing Technique
• How to Paint a 24 x 30 Acrylic With 30 People
• How to Do Smooth Shading with Acrylic
• How to Sketch an Acrylic Portrait with a Grid

Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!

I’d love to hear your thoughts about this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.

If you’d like to learn more, sign up for my free email tips and video class today.

Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits With My Free Mini-Video Course!

Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me.  I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.  

 

P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!