All posts by Matt Philleo

New Portrait Painting Class Coming Very Soon!

I’m SO excited for the new painting class that I will be opening up tomorrow!

So what’s the difference between that one and the old one?

Well, the first one, “Paint Your First Amazing Acrylic Portrait,” was launched waaaay back in 2017.  One of my online followers, Dorothy, asked and asked and asked me when I was going to teach a class. I had taught in-person classes for a while, but I wasn’t sure if it was possible to teach online.

Despite my uncertainty, a very eager Dorothy, who was in her 80’s, bought a webcam and I walked her through on how to set it up. Then she asked me, “IF you were to teach a class, how much would you charge?”

I researched online, and it seemed like $97 was a good price. So I told her, and she said, “I’ll mail you a check.” 

So now, I HAD to do the class!

I let the people on my email list of 141 people know and 10 signed up! And that was my original class. I taught it all live. I bought an online class teaching me how to teach an online class. They said, “it’s better just to do it imperfectly than to be a perfectionist and not do it at all.”

I took that to heart and decided to take action.

From several conversations with artists, I learned what they wanted in a class, and what frustrations they were experiencing while trying to paint a portrait in acrylic. I created my lesson plan based on that.

Quickly, I suspended my webcam with some sticks and wire on the ceiling and started meeting with the students once a week, and recording the lessons.

That first class was good—for a beta class​—and hundreds of students got great results from it. But I know it could be better. I’ve gotten tons of feedback. Like hundreds of comments from students to know what to improve.

So what will be the difference between the classes?

Let me show you.


As you can see, God willing, the new class will be TONS better! I am excited to offer it to you.

Tomorrow, I’ll give you more details and open it up for enrollment.

Sign up here on my email list to get the invite:

Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits

Blessings,

Matt

P.S. Do you have any questions about this class? Leave a comment below. I’m excited to teach you!

acrylic medium gloss matte

Matte Medium vs. Gloss Medium for Acrylic Glazing

Students who are new to my glazing technique have a lot of questions. So many mediums to choose from. Which ones are best to use…and why?

That’s what I want to discuss today.

Here’s a portion of an email I got from one of my students: 

As you know, I am currently working on your portrait course at the moment, however, I have a question that I hope you can clarify. All previous information I have looked up indicates that when applying glazes, acrylic matte medium dries cloudy and gloss medium dries clear and obviously glossy. Can you just explain it for me why we only use matte medium for glazing in your tutorial, as my initial thoughts would be that the cloudiness would just build up? Or am I just missing the l point in that this is how we build up the underpainting of the portrait? Many Thanks, R—

This is a good question.

So, what’s better for glazing? Matte medium or gloss medium?

Let me answer that with the reply I sent back to my student. 

I use matte medium for three reasons:

1. It dries to a flat finish and so it doesn’t react with the lights in my studio, producing distracting glare.

2. Because it dries to a flat finish, it is closer to the sheen of paint, and so when you have areas that are more opaque and less opaque, they match up better. In other words, you can perceive the values more accurately. A glossy finish will make colors look more saturated and deepen values. When you put a varnish over the painting, it would present a problem, causing certain subtle nuances that seemed to look correct, suddenly become inaccurate. (Yes, this happened to me!)

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3. Matte medium is usually less expensive than gloss medium. With the copious amounts of medium that I use, this adds up!

Now, I don’t find that matte medium builds up cloudiness, in the way that I teach. It will get cloudy, if you have areas of your painting that are quite dark or saturated, and you overlap those areas with a very transparent (high ratio of matte medium to paint) glaze.

But I don’t do it that way in my paintings. Rather, I start off very transparent, (95-5) then shift to more translucent (80-20), and finally end up with semi-opaque layers (50-50) over portions of the work.

acrylic portrait painting challenge in progress

Acrylic portrait painting challenge example in progressm using the acrylic glazing technique, 16 x 20, acrylic on canvas by artist and instructor Matt Philleo

 

Matt Philleo painting an acrylic portrait from a photo for the Spring Portrait Painting Challenge ©2020 by Matt Philleo


This prevents that cloudiness from occurring and gives a rich saturation of color too. But we still retain the benefits of the smooth shading, vibrancy, and depth that glazing produces.

I finish my painting with a satin or semi-gloss varnish and that’s where we can add some extra saturation of value and vibrancy.

What is YOUR experience with acrylic mediums? Which do you prefer…and why? Let me know in the comments below.

Look forward to sharing more tips and tutorials with you.

Yours for Better Portraits,

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How I Painted a Wedding Portrait on Black Canvas

How I Painted a Wedding Portrait on Black Canvas

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For those of you that know me, I have long championed the technique of glazing paint onto a white canvas, so that the light reflects through the layers of paint, giving it added luminosity and depth. I still think it’s a fantastic way to paint.

But occasionally, I like to try something new.

A client from Brooklyn, who I am doing portraits of rabbis for, asked me if I ever tried painting on a black canvas. The idea is that if your painting already has a lot of black areas and dark values (which rabbi portraits do with their dark suits and hats), why not start with a black canvas and work the other way out?

So that’s what I did.

A couple of old high school friends asked me to paint a portrait of them from their wedding day–and I thought, this would be the perfect opportunity to utilize this technique.

Step 1: Toning the Background

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So with that, I bought a 16″ x 20″ canvas already primed with black acrylic gesso. The next step was to tone the background. I used my favorite portrait painting color, raw umber dark and a little bit of raw sienna and burnt sienna, thinned with acrylic medium, applied with a couple layers.


Step 2: Blocking the Forms

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I want to be transparent with my process. Although I utilize many techniques for sketching onto a canvas–from tracing, to using a grid, to freehand sketching, to even painting without a sketch, in this particular painting I used a projector to quickly establish the shapes and forms. I mixed a portrait base tone with titanium white, raw sienna, and burnt sienna and applied it with a couple layers to the canvas, following what I saw in the projection. After the final layer dried, I defined some of the details of the faces and clothing using the portrait tone mixed with burnt sienna and raw umber dark.


Step 3: Building the Foundational Colors and Values

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In the next step, I started establishing some tonal values right away with glazes of raw umber dark, and burnt sienna. On the faces, I darkened the details of the eyes, under the chin, added some depth to the faces by establishing the shadows on the sides of the head, with various mixtures of raw umber dark, burnt sienna, and napthol crimson.

Additionally, I painted in the white of the dress with pure titanium white, thinned down with a small portion of medium to give it a translucency effect of white fabric with the skin behind it.

Then I painted in her veil with a mixture of raw umber dark, white, and a tiny bit of ultramarine blue. Most of the cool tones in that veil are achieved by the mixture of the white paint with raw umber dark. Any time you add white paint, you are cooling down the temperature of the color mix, so this can be used intentionally to create that effect.

Finally, I lightened up the background with a few more glazes of raw umber dark, raw sienna, and burnt sienna. This provides more contrast so that the black value of the suit is more clearly outlined.


Step 4: Heightening the Contrast

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In this step, I continued to heighten the contrast in the painting all over. I added more glazes of raw umber dark, burnt sienna, and alizarine crimson for the shadow areas, and raw sienna, titanium white, and a tiny bit of indian yellow and organic orange for the highlights. It’s necessary to warm up these highlights with some colors that have more intensity when you mix white into the glaze. (Because I was starting with a medium-value flesh tone as the base, I glazed in reverse for the highlights, moving from that darker value to lighter.)

You can see I darkened in the eyes and added reflections to the eyeballs. That really brought the painting to a higher level, and made me feel good about how it was progressing.

Moving to the other side of the canvas, I introduced red to the boutonniere with napthol red and raw sienna which, mixed together, is very opaque.

Step 5: Adding More Nuances

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Here the painting began to really get close to the finish line. I feel like this was the reward for all the tedious work in layering initial values and colors. I kept adding nuances and tones throughout, with various mixtures of raw umber dark, burnt sienna, napthol crimson, raw sienna, titanium white and couple other colors where necessary.

I darkened the veil with some layers of ultramarine blue mixed with ivory black and white, of course, thinned down with clear acrylic matte medium. I wanted to continue to suggest some of the lace in her dress by adding some flesh tone mixture in various patterns.

Sometimes capturing realism is not found in what you put in, but what you leave out.

I could have gone crazy with adding every little texture of the lace and netted tulle openings, but that would be unnecessary. I would likely have distracted from the realism, and certainly draw your attention away from the most important thing; the bride and groom’s faces, exhibiting the joy of the moment of their wonderful day.

Last Step: Adding Final Nuances and Details

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When a painting nears completion, you have to balance a couple different factors.

How much more do I need to add to this so it looks fantastic, finished, without going overboard?

What is the deadline?

In this case, I had some wiggle room on the deadline, so that wasn’t a factor. But as a professional portrait painter, I don’t want to take my time adding details that contribute very little to the overall impact of a painting.

But I had a little more work to do. I needed to add in some important jewelry on the veil, her earrings, and define the necklace, as well as some of the buttons on the groom’s shirt. If those details were not there, we can safely say, the client would notice!

In addition to that, I worked all over the painting, adding a few final nuances–heightening the contrast of the teeth, some of those “shiny” highlights on the face that usually glisten due to sweat on the skin, and also some of the details within her dress.

Finally, I signed it and called it done!

I hope you enjoyed this little painting tutorial, and as always, have a blessed day,

LEARN MORE

Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!

 

 

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sketch tracing refine

How to Refine a Traced Sketch Freehand

Ok. You just got done tracing an image for your portrait painting.

Now what? Begin painting? Not so fast! 🙂 In this video, I’ll show you how I’m refining the traced image, freehand, to make it ready to paint upon.

In this video, I’m going to work on this sketch of Isaiah or Hezekiah.

This is for the book of Isaiah by Russell Stendal and it’s an illustration based off this image here of a man in intercessory prayer. And originally, I did a video showing the tracing process, asking whether it’s ok to trace. And I think I answered that question, that it is—as long as you do freehand sketching and work with grids. But especially as you work with freehand sketching, which will help you to improve as an artist.

Now, I’m going to work in this sketch to show you the process of tightening up a sketch done by tracing initally and the tracing process does leave you with a lot of work left to be done. So, I’m going to show you how I’m going to add additional shading in detail and then have a sketch that I can paint on top of.

If you’d like to learn more, sign up for my free email tips and video class today.

Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits With My Free Mini-Video Course!

Thank you so much for reading this tutorial and watching the video. That means a lot to me. I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting!

Yours for Better Portraits,

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P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!

How to Adjust the Eyes in an Acrylic Portrait

This is a small snippet of an intensive two-day workshop, where I help a student adjust the shape of the eyes in her portrait.

It’s a common problem that we face as portrait artists. I hope this helps you in your portrait as well!

varnish acrylic portrait

How to Varnish an Acrylic Painting in One Step

A question I get asked a lot is: how do you varnish an acrylic painting?

There’s a lot of controversy surrounding this topic, or at least, many different opinions on how to do it right.

Some say you need an isolation coat. Others say you should spray apply the varnish. And then there are some who pour it on or use a sponge!

I’m not here to dismiss any of those methods. If they work for that particular artist, more power to them.

Rather, I’d like to share with you the method I’ve been using for over 20 years as a portrait painter. It’s easy, and you can do it one step.

Let me break down this one-step acrylic varnishing method into how to actually do it…

  1. Lay your canvas flat on a table, oriented horizontally, but at an angle.
  2. Raise your canvas up, on four scraps of wood placed under each corner (make sure it’s level. 1″ x 2″s work well )
  3.  Get your 4″ varnishing brush (Liquitex Freestyle works well)
  4. Pour matte varnish (Novacolor or Liquitex) into a clean yogurt container or any plastic container large enough to accommodate the width of the brush. Be sure to stir the varnish if it’s been sitting for a while! Over time the polymer resin can separate from the water in the mixture. If you don’t mix it, you may have streaks.
  5. “Sweep” any dust or debris off of the canvas surface with a large brush before you begin.
  6. Dip your brush into the varnish container, so the bristles are coated with varnish 1/3-1/2 of the way up from the tip.
  7. Begin brushing the varnish on the surface, starting with the end farthest from you. Brush in the longest direction of the canvas.
  8. Let your brush hit 1/3″ of the way from the left edge of the canvas. Apply even pressure and bring the brush all the way to the left edge.
  9. Bring the brush all the way to the right edge.
  10. Wipe any excess varnish that remains on your brush inside the top lip of your container.
  11. Flip the brush over and smooth out the entire first application, overlapping the edge slightly with 1-2 strokes. Do not overbrush!
  12. Dip your brush into the varnish container and repeat the process. Let your stroke slightly overlap the first (about 1/4″)
  13. You will be working your way toward your body. This will keep you from accidentally dripping onto the finished varnished surface.
  14. If you have any extra varnish that drips onto the side of the canvas, use a 3/4 flat brush to wipe it off. If the canvas will be framed, the side-drips are usually not a problem and can be left alone.
  15. Let your canvas dry flat on a table. It might look milky white in areas. Resist the temptation to brush it! If you followed my method, the varnish should dry crystal clear. It should dry completely within 3-5 hours, depending on humidity.

Disclaimer: I have used this method with great results in over 20 years of portrait painting. Your results are up to you, how you apply this method, and the humidity levels of your studio space. I cannot be held responsible for any painting that gets damaged during the varnishing process. It would be a good idea to varnish a test piece first. You can add another layer (after 3-5 hours of dry time) if you feel the first one didn’t cover as well as you’d like, but most of the time, you won’t need to.

Watch this video below to see the process in action…

 

Let me know if you have any questions and I look forward to teaching you more!

—Matt

Questions? Suggestions? Thoughts? Let me know, below in the comments. Please share this post with your friends!

 

3 Tips to Drawing Better Pencil Portraits

Better drawing=better painting. So today, I’m going to show you some tips on how to improve your drawing.

I’ll be basing today’s demo on an 8″ x 24″ commissioned pet portrait I’m working on. I’ll talk about and demonstrate shading, texture and how to smooth things out. 

Watch the video below and find out how to do it!

Let me know if you have any questions and I look forward to teaching you more!

—Matt

Questions? Suggestions? Thoughts? Let me know, below in the comments. Please share this post with your friends!

 

Adding Early Highlights to Your Acrylic Portrait

Sometimes an acrylic painting doesn’t always go the way you want it to go. Then you need to make adjustments. And that’s OK!

In this video, I take a slightly different approach and add highlights to my painting early on in the process. Because my toning layer got a bit dark, I wanted to go back and strengthen the highlights, using titanium white and Indian yellow, diluted with matte medium to make it the application fluid. This allows those areas ultimately to have more luminosity and vibrance.

 

Let me know if you have any questions and I look forward to teaching you more!

—Matt

Questions? Suggestions? Thoughts? Let me know, below in the comments. Please share this post with your friends!

 

battlefield painting moses aaron hur

Blocking-in on a 30″ x 40″ Acrylic Battle Scene Painting

The way we begin an acrylic painting is super important and determines, in many ways, how it will end up. In this lesson, I show you how to block in the value structure, using the classical glazing technique adapted for acrylics.

In this demonstration, I am using a 30″ x 40″ acrylic painting I was commissioned to create, a battle scene between ancient Israel and the Amalekites. I asked my friends to come over to my home early in the morning, at sunrise, and model for the painting.

Original reference photo for Moses, Aaron and Hur painting, ©2021 Matt Philleo

Yes, that’s me in the middle!

In this battle, when the Israelite leader Moses held up his staff, the power of God would flow. It caused the Israelite army to defeat their battlefield enemies. But, as the battle lasted for hours, Moses grew tired and couldn’t hold up his staff. Then the Amalekites got the advantage over the Israelites!

His assistants, Aaron and Hur came up with an idea. They had Moses sit on a rock. Then they held up his arms on either side, so once again, the Israelites could prevail.

This painting is meant to depict the struggle in praying, and how when others come alongside of us, they can ease the burden. Their faith strengthens ours, and we can get the victory!

Here is my layout for the painting that I edited on Photoshop…

Reference image for acrylic painting of Moses, Aaron and Hur, Battle with the Amalekites, ©2021 Matt Philleo

Now for the blocking-in video…

We start with an accurate sketch. Then, my goal is to quickly identify the major areas of contrast within the reference photo.

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30 x 40 Acrylic on Canvas painting of Moses, Aaron and Hur in the Amalekite battle. Shown in the sketch stage. ©2021 Matt Philleo

Then we apply a layer of raw umber dark, ultramarine blue and matte medium to the shadow areas designated on the sketch…

Watch the video here to see how to do it…

 

Let me know if you have any questions and I look forward to teaching you more!

—Matt

Questions? Suggestions? Thoughts? Let me know, below in the comments. Please share this post with your friends!

 

How to Paint Realistic Reflections on Eyes in Your Acrylic Portrait

Eyes are the most important feature of an acrylic portrait. When you paint the eyes correctly, everything else seems to fall into place so much easier. 

In this video, I’ll show you how to paint realistic reflections, using two complementary colors in addition to white, and getting the shape of the reflection just right. This originally was a BONUS video in the Acrylic Portrait Painting Challenge Master Class, now available in the All-Access Membership at Realistic Acrylic Portrait School.


Even though it is technically over, you can take the Acrylic Portrait Painting Challenge (it’s FREE!) and paint along with us! 8 master class lessons are posted to help you paint a portrait you can be proud of!

REGISTER TODAY. The challenge is ongoing, something you can do at your own pace. It’s not too late to enter! After you join, I’ll send you the supplies list and reference photos to paint from.

Register for the Challenge!

WATCH NOW…

Lesson #8: How to Paint Realistic Reflections on Eyes in Acrylic

Paint realistic reflections on eyes in your acrylic portrait

 


Let me know if you have any questions and I look forward to teaching you more!

—Matt

Questions? Suggestions? Thoughts? Let me know, below in the comments. Please share your sketches in our Facebook group and share this post with your friends!

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