If you struggle with shading and skin tones (many artists do), I put together a special bundle of three of my favorite courses to help you.
Get the bundle here: https://realistic-acrylic-portrait-sc…
Watch the video below to learn more about the introduction of the shading and skin tones super bundle.
Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.
If you’d like to learn more, sign up for my free email tips and video class today.
Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits With My Free Mini-Video Course!
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me. I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.
Yours for Better Portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
When painting small faces in acrylic portraits, achieving the right balance of shading and skin tones can be tricky. The key lies in understanding light values and applying the glazing technique to create realistic tones and depth. In this post, I will guide you through a step-by-step process that will help you refine your acrylic portrait and improve your ability to paint smaller, more intricate details.
Before working with color, it’s essential to focus on values. Values refer to the lightness or darkness of an area, and they must be correctly identified and applied before considering color. For small faces, areas like the nose, chin, and cheeks are crucial for defining the facial structure. Often, light comes from above, casting subtle shadows and highlights that bring out the form.
To achieve realistic skin tones, choose a mix of burnt sienna and titanium white as your base. Adding raw sienna or pyrrole orange can help create warmth and chromatic variation. Start with these hues and adjust the mix depending on the tone you want to achieve. For example, titanium white will cool the skin tone, making it lighter, while raw sienna adds warmth.
Glazing is crucial for achieving smooth transitions between light and shadow. When working on small faces, apply thin, semi-opaque glazes to slowly build up the skin tone. Make sure to adjust the transparency by adding more matte medium to control how much of the underlying paint shows through.
Once the basic skin tones are in place, it’s time to enhance the shadows, particularly around the eyes, jawline, and nose. Shadows are often underpainted, leading to faces that lack depth. When shading small faces, it’s vital to ensure that areas such as the eye sockets are sufficiently darkened to enhance realism.
As you build up layers of glazes, add small amounts of pyrrole orange or Indian yellow to intensify the chroma. This helps achieve a more natural skin tone that has subtle color variations. Skin isn’t a flat color but rather a dynamic surface with slight shifts in hue.
To finish the shading process, concentrate on the jawline and neck area, particularly where light reflects off the subject’s clothing. For example, red clothing can reflect onto the neck, casting a warm glow. In such cases, mix pyrrole orange with matte medium and apply it sparingly to mimic this effect.
Finally, add a final layer of highlights using a lighter glaze of titanium white. These highlights should be carefully placed on areas like the tip of the nose or chin to emphasize light reflections and bring the painting to life.
Shading and adjusting skin tones on small faces in an acrylic portrait can be accomplished through careful observation and the application of glazing techniques. Focus on values first, and build up skin tones through thin, transparent layers. By following these steps, you’ll improve the depth and realism in your portraits, making even the smallest details shine.
If you want to learn more about perfecting your acrylic portraits, download my free PDF guide, “Fix Muddy Skin Tones in Your Acrylic Portrait now.
Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.
If you’d like to learn more, sign up for my free email tips and video class today.
Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits With My Free Mini-Video Course!
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me. I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.
Yours for Better Portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
Adding highlights to background trees can transform the overall look of your acrylic painting, bringing depth and realism to your artwork. In this tutorial, we will explore how to effectively apply highlights using a semi-opaque glaze to suggest the texture and lighting of background foliage. You’ll learn the nuances of mixing colors, selecting the right brushes, and how to use these techniques to add beautiful details to your painting.
Before you begin, ensure you have your colors mixed and materials ready. For this tutorial, we will primarily use the following colors:
These colors will help create a vibrant greenish-yellow tone for your highlights. Begin by mixing a small amount of titanium white, Indian yellow, and a touch of phthalo blue. The result will be a soft, yellow-green that works well for depicting leaves hit by sunlight.
When mixing colors for the highlights, aim for a hue that’s slightly lighter and warmer than the mid-tones of your background trees. This will ensure your highlights blend smoothly without appearing too stark.
Using a round brush, begin applying the semi-opaque glaze in areas where light naturally hits the leaves. A delicate touch is essential to achieve a soft, realistic effect. Allow your brush to dance lightly across the surface, adding small, irregular dabs of color. These represent leaves catching light through the foliage.
As you move to darker areas of the background, adjust your color mix by adding more phthalo blue and Indian yellow. This will deepen the tone and create a more chromatic variation, essential for achieving a balanced look across the painting.
If the glaze starts to appear too light or chalky over the darker areas, adjust by darkening the mixture. You can add a small amount of ultramarine blue and raw sienna to muddy the glaze slightly, helping it blend with the darker sections of your background.
Switching brushes during the painting process can help create different textures and effects. For instance:
This transition between brush types will create a contrast between the crispness of the highlighted leaves and the soft appearance of the background trees.
Once you’ve applied your initial highlights, it’s time to refine the details. You don’t want to over-detail every section—just a few carefully placed dabs of light color can enhance the effect. Aim for balance by leaving some areas less detailed while others are slightly more refined.
Vary the intensity of your highlights by alternating between slightly lighter and slightly darker hues. This will make your background trees appear more dynamic and realistic.
As you work on the upper areas of the trees, ensure that the highlights are slightly warmer in tone compared to the surrounding colors. Mixing titanium white with Indian yellow can create a warmer highlight that mimics the effect of sunlight filtering through the leaves.
When adding highlights to the trees, consider the lighting conditions in your painting. For areas where direct sunlight hits, opt for a warmer yellowish tint. In contrast, cooler highlights with more blue are suitable for areas in shadow or indirect light.
In the final stages, focus on fine-tuning the leaves and highlights. You can add depth by placing a few outliers—small spots of light—away from the main group of leaves. This will create a natural, unstructured look that enhances realism.
Overworking the highlights can make your painting look artificial. Instead, apply your brushstrokes with intention, leaving areas of contrast between light and dark to maintain a balanced composition.
By adding highlights to your background trees, you can bring an entirely new dimension to your acrylic painting. The glazing technique allows you to control the transparency of the paint, creating subtle yet impactful lighting effects that mimic real-life foliage. With practice and attention to detail, you’ll master this technique and enhance the overall realism of your landscape paintings.
Read more about my additional resources, tutorials, to learn more and check out my free courses here. . Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced artist, there’s always something new to learn and apply to your paintings. Happy painting!
Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.
If you’d like to learn more, sign up for my free email tips and video class today.
Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits With My Free Mini-Video Course!
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me. I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.
Yours for Better Portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
When it comes to painting foliage in your acrylic portraits or landscapes, one of the best ways to capture depth and realism is through the acrylic glazing technique. In this guide, we’ll explore how to layer colors, create realistic shadows, and bring your foliage to life with step-by-step instructions and tips.
One of the critical aspects of painting foliage is choosing the right colors, especially in shadows. You don’t want to use overly intense chromatic greens that can make your painting look flat or artificial. Instead, opt for grayish-green tones for the shadow areas, which add a natural depth and realism to your work.
For example, the foliage in your painting’s shadowed areas can be made more effective by blending raw umber dark, ultramarine blue, and raw sienna. This combination creates a desaturated, natural green that mimics how shadows in nature would appear—subtle yet impactful. The right use of cool colors like ultramarine blue helps define the cooler, darker regions of the foliage.
It’s essential to steer away from vibrant, saturated greens in the shadow areas. These should be saved for the sunlit portions of the trees to achieve a dynamic contrast.
Acrylic glazing allows you to work in thin layers, which can be built up over time to create depth in your foliage. For this, you’ll want to mix a small amount of your chosen paint color with a clear matte medium. This mixture creates a translucent glaze that will enable you to see through to the underlying layers, preserving the details of your initial sketch or previous layers.
In the early stages, you will be blocking in the shadow colors, leaving lighter areas open for subsequent layers. Glazing ensures that each layer of paint adds depth without covering the finer details of your painting.
To thin down your paint, mix a small amount of acrylic medium with the color on your palette. This allows you to gradually build up color, controlling its opacity and intensity while preserving the underlying forms.
One common mistake when painting foliage is trying to paint each leaf individually. However, it’s more effective to focus on larger shapes and the overall form of the trees and foliage. By looking at your reference photo closely, identify the primary shapes formed by the clusters of leaves rather than individual leaves themselves.
In your first layers, block in the general shapes with darker colors. For example, using a mix of raw umber dark and ultramarine blue can help you establish the darkest shadow areas of the trees. Once these shapes are in place, you can add highlights or refine the edges as you move forward.
Instead of getting caught up in the small details, focus on simplifying the foliage by working with larger shapes and forms. This will help you achieve a cohesive look while maintaining the overall flow and balance of the piece.
After you’ve laid down your initial shapes and shadows, the next step is to add depth by applying darker tones. Mix in ultramarine blue, raw sienna, and a touch of Indian yellow to your palette to create a deep, cool shadow color. As you apply these layers, ensure that your strokes follow the natural form of the foliage to enhance the illusion of volume and depth.
Using a size 14 angled flat brush will give you control over the direction and width of your strokes, helping you define the darkest parts of the trees. For areas where the shadows are most intense, you can use more pressure and apply a slightly thicker layer of the glaze. Remember, each layer adds another dimension to your foliage, so take your time with this process.
By using a flat brush, you can achieve a sharp edge that helps define the boundaries of your dark shapes. This technique is particularly useful for creating crisp shadows that enhance the realism of your foliage.
Once your shadow areas are well established, it’s time to add mid-tones and highlights. These layers will give your foliage the brightness and vibrancy it needs to stand out. For sunlit areas, a mix of Indian yellow, raw sienna, and a small amount of titanium white will create the perfect highlight color.
Apply these lighter tones sparingly to avoid overpowering the shadowed areas. Use a dry brush technique to add subtle highlights, mimicking how sunlight would naturally catch on the edges of leaves.
Adding highlights should be done in thin, gradual layers to avoid a stark contrast between your light and dark areas. Glazing with lighter colors will help you build up the highlights over time without overwhelming the painting.
Once your layers are complete, it’s time to refine the nuances of your foliage. Use a small brush to add any branches or finer details that may be peeking through the leaves. However, be careful not to overdo it—often, less is more when it comes to these final touches.
If you’ve accidentally painted over an area that you intended to leave lighter, don’t worry. Since you’re working with glazes, it’s easy to go back and adjust your values. Simply apply another glaze layer to adjust the tone of the area.
If your highlights or shadows are too intense, apply another layer of glaze to either darken or lighten the area subtly without starting over.
By following these steps, you’ll be able to create realistic and dynamic foliage using the acrylic glazing technique. Remember to build your layers slowly, focus on large shapes instead of tiny details, and use the right colors for shadows and highlights. With practice, your foliage will enhance the depth and realism of your acrylic paintings, bringing your landscapes and portraits to life.
Check out more tutorials and lessons on acrylic glazing and other techniques to continue improving your painting skills!
Watch my tutorial to learn more about how to paint foliage using the acrylic glazing technique.
Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.
If you’d like to learn more, sign up for my free email tips and video class today.
Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits With My Free Mini-Video Course!
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me. I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.
Yours for Better Portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
In this tutorial, we’ll explore how to paint realistic trees and grass using the acrylic glazing technique. This approach allows for gradual layering of colors, which adds depth and vibrancy to your landscape. Acrylic glazing helps build up the scene, much like how an oil painting develops, while maintaining the versatility and quick-drying benefits of acrylics.
Whether you’re working on a portrait background or a full landscape, these methods will enhance your painting’s realism. So, grab your brushes and let’s dive in!
Before starting, make sure you have these essential tools:
Begin by setting up your palette with the necessary colors. In this painting, raw umber and ultramarine blue will serve as the foundation for shadows, while indian yellow and phthalo blue will add vibrancy to the lighter areas. Make sure to have a matte medium to thin out your paints for glazing.
Transitioning between vibrant and muted colors is key. As you work in darker areas, shift away from highly saturated colors like Indian Yellow to cooler tones like ultramarine blue.
Begin with a light sketch on your canvas, which will act as a guide for placing trees and grass. Use thin layers of paint to avoid covering up your sketch too early. In the initial stages, the painting may resemble a watercolor, but as you apply more glazes, it will begin to take on the characteristics of a full-bodied acrylic painting.
When painting grass, start by applying a base layer using vibrant colors like Indian yellow and phthalo blue. This combination gives the grass a rich, glowing appearance. As you move further away into the background or shadows, use cooler and less intense tones like raw umber.
For glazing, thin out your paint with matte medium to make it translucent. This will allow previous layers to show through, creating depth. Layering slowly is crucial—don’t rush the process.
Once the initial glaze dries, begin adding darker tones to create depth. In this case, mix raw umber dark with ultramarine blue. The deeper shades of color should be applied sparingly to the areas that are farthest from the light source. This technique, known as adding “shadows within the shadows,” adds dimension and makes your painting more realistic.
In places where light barely reaches, such as underneath trees or in between clumps of grass, carefully brush in darker glazes. Thin these glazes with matte medium to ensure the darkness isn’t overpowering.
To achieve a seamless blend between light and dark areas, use a dry brush technique. As the paint on your brush begins to run out, use the remaining paint to blend areas softly. Gently sweep the brush back and forth in different directions, blending the layers into each other.
Switching between horizontal and vertical brush strokes can smooth the transitions between glazes, ensuring a more natural look for both trees and grass.
Read more about my additional resources, tutorials, to learn more and check out my free courses here. . Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced artist, there’s always something new to learn and apply to your paintings. Happy painting!
Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.
If you’d like to learn more, sign up for my free email tips and video class today.
Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits With My Free Mini-Video Course!
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me. I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.
Yours for Better Portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
That’s what I want to discuss today.
Here’s a portion of an email I got from one of my students:
As you know, I am currently working on your portrait course at the moment, however, I have a question that I hope you can clarify. All previous information I have looked up indicates that when applying glazes, acrylic matte medium dries cloudy and gloss medium dries clear and obviously glossy. Can you just explain it for me why we only use matte medium for glazing in your tutorial, as my initial thoughts would be that the cloudiness would just build up? Or am I just missing the l point in that this is how we build up the underpainting of the portrait? Many Thanks, R—
This is a good question.
Let me answer that with the reply I sent back to my student.
I use matte medium for three reasons:
1. It dries to a flat finish and so it doesn’t react with the lights in my studio, producing distracting glare.
2. Because it dries to a flat finish, it is closer to the sheen of paint, and so when you have areas that are more opaque and less opaque, they match up better. In other words, you can perceive the values more accurately. A glossy finish will make colors look more saturated and deepen values. When you put a varnish over the painting, it would present a problem, causing certain subtle nuances that seemed to look correct, suddenly become inaccurate. (Yes, this happened to me!)
3. Matte medium is usually less expensive than gloss medium. With the copious amounts of medium that I use, this adds up!
Now, I don’t find that matte medium builds up cloudiness, in the way that I teach. It will get cloudy, if you have areas of your painting that are quite dark or saturated, and you overlap those areas with a very transparent (high ratio of matte medium to paint) glaze.
But I don’t do it that way in my paintings. Rather, I start off very transparent, (95-5) then shift to more translucent (80-20), and finally end up with semi-opaque layers (50-50) over portions of the work.
This prevents that cloudiness from occurring and gives a rich saturation of color too. But we still retain the benefits of the smooth shading, vibrancy, and depth that glazing produces.
I finish my painting with a satin or semi-gloss varnish and that’s where we can add some extra saturation of value and vibrancy.
What is YOUR experience with acrylic mediums? Which do you prefer…and why? Let me know in the comments below.
Look forward to sharing more tips and tutorials with you.
Yours for Better Portraits,
If you found this post helpful or encouraging, would you send it on ahead? Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much!
Acrylic portrait painting offers endless opportunities for creativity, but accuracy is key when capturing a subject’s likeness. Even experienced artists can sometimes struggle with proportions, features, or subtleties that can throw off the realism of a painting. In this post, we’ll explore techniques to fine-tune your portrait accuracy, including a step-by-step critique process. By addressing common mistakes and refining your approach, you’ll make your acrylic portraits more lifelike.
Proportions are the backbone of a realistic portrait. Even if your shading and colors are flawless, incorrect proportions can distort your subject’s likeness. When comparing your painting with your reference photo, examine the general shape of the head, the placement of facial features, and the overall size.
One technique to achieve accurate proportions is by using a grid system. This method breaks the reference photo into smaller sections, helping you place features correctly. If you choose to freehand, regularly measure distances between key facial elements like the eyes, nose, and mouth. Both methods work, but the grid system is more forgiving for beginners.
Eyes are the focal point of most portraits. In this critique, we notice that one of the eyes appears slightly too large compared to the other. This is a common issue and can occur due to perspective or incorrect placement of the eyeball. To fix this, take note of the size and shape of both eyes. The eye seen at an angle, for example, should be thinner and slightly more oval.
Also, focus on the eyelid thickness. Often, the upper eyelid may be too thick or too distant from the lower eyelid, altering the expression. Adjust this to match your reference photo more closely, and ensure that the shadow from the eyebrow ridge is reflected in the way you paint the eyebrow.
Eyebrows contribute significantly to the expression of your portrait. In some cases, as highlighted in the critique, eyebrows might be painted too thin or flat. This can make the face look less dynamic or lively. Pay attention to the natural thickness of the brows and the shadow underneath them. Eyebrows aren’t just about individual hairs; the underlying structure, such as the brow ridge, also plays a role.
Make sure to capture the shape of the brows as they angle up or down according to the skull’s structure. Adding more thickness and dimension to the eyebrows can instantly change the character and realism of your portrait.
One subtle yet crucial area to improve accuracy in a portrait is the angle and shape of the mouth. The critique points out that the mouth angle in the painting doesn’t fully match the reference photo. A slight change in angle can alter the expression, making the portrait appear off.
To adjust this, focus on where the corners of the mouth fall in relation to other features. The line between the lips should not be overly steep or shallow. Moreover, make sure that the mouth’s width is proportional to the eyes and nose, which will help achieve a more harmonious facial structure.
Light and shadow create depth, making your portrait pop. In the critique, the lighting in the subject’s face was well-executed, but more luminosity was needed in certain areas, such as the forehead and chin, where light hits directly. The glazing technique is an excellent method to preserve luminosity in your painting.
Instead of painting mid-tones first, block in the shadows using thin glazes, leaving the light areas intact. This will allow the light to shine through, giving a more vibrant and realistic feel to your portrait. Apply this to other areas as well, such as the nose and cheeks, where subtle variations in lighting can bring your painting to life.
The jawline and chin define the overall shape of the face. In the critique, it was noted that the chin was slightly too short, and the jawline could have been extended. Small adjustments in these areas can have a big impact on the accuracy of your portrait.
When examining the reference photo, look at how the light interacts with the jawline. Extend or adjust the line accordingly, especially in angled portraits where perspective plays a role. The chin should not be cut off too early but should have a natural curve.
Achieving accuracy in acrylic portraits takes practice and patience, but by refining proportions, focusing on subtle details, and using techniques like glazing, you can drastically improve the realism of your work. Be mindful of common mistakes such as incorrect proportions, mismatched facial features, and lack of depth in lighting. With these tips, you’ll be well on your way to creating more accurate and lifelike portraits.
Read more about my additional resources, tutorials, to learn more and check out my free courses here. . Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced artist, there’s always something new to learn and apply to your paintings. Happy painting!
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
When creating a large acrylic painting, one of the key elements in bringing it to life is mastering the shadow work. Blocking in shadows helps define the structure and form of your subject, adding realism and depth. Using an acrylic glazing technique enhances the shadowing effect, keeping it translucent while still maintaining control over the darker areas of the painting.
In this blog post, we’ll explore a step-by-step approach on how to block in shadows for a large painting. We’ll cover the essential tools, glazing methods, and tips to help you create a more dynamic, realistic piece of art.
Before diving into the painting process, it’s important to prepare your materials and mindset. I begin this painting session with a moment of reflection and prayer, setting an intention to create a work that captures emotion and depth. Preparation also involves setting up the canvas, sketching the outline of the subject, and sealing the sketch with a light glaze.
For this demonstration, a mixture of raw umber dark and ultramarine blue was chosen for the shadow work. These colors, when blended, create a rich, cool tone that is perfect for shadows. Here’s how you can apply this to your own painting:
Blocking in shadows for a large painting requires a few specialized techniques. Here are some essential methods to use:
In the video, I focused on several parts of the painting and then demonstrated the blocking in of shadows:
Once the shadow areas are blocked in, the final step involves refining the details. Then I used a smaller brush to control the finer aspects of the shadows, ensuring that they didn’t overpower the highlights. This delicate balance between light and shadow is what ultimately brings the painting to life.
Blocking in shadows is a crucial skill for any artist, especially when working on large paintings. By using acrylic glazing techniques, you can add depth and realism while preserving the underlying details. Remember to take your time, build the shadows in layers, and constantly refer to your reference photo to ensure accuracy.
Master this technique, and you’ll find your large acrylic paintings gaining new levels of dimension and realism.
If you’re looking for more instructional videos on how to improve your acrylic painting, visit www.realisticacrylic.com for more tutorials and check out my free courses here. .
Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.
If you’d like to learn more, sign up for my free email tips and video class today.
Learn How to Paint Acrylic Portraits With My Free Mini-Video Course!
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me. I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.
Yours for Better Portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
Now what? Begin painting? Not so fast! 🙂 In this video, I’ll show you how to refine a traced sketch freehand and to make it ready to paint upon.
This is for the book of Isaiah by Russell Stendal and it’s an illustration based off this image here of a man in intercessory prayer. And originally, I did a video showing the tracing process, asking whether it’s ok to trace. And I think I answered that question, that it is—as long as you do freehand sketching and work with grids. But especially as you work with freehand sketching, which will help you to improve as an artist.
Now, I’m going to work in this sketch to show you the process of tightening up a sketch done by tracing initally and the tracing process does leave you with a lot of work left to be done. So, I’m going to show you how I’m going to add additional shading in detail and then have a sketch that I can paint on top of.
Traced sketches are often used by artists to quickly capture the proportions and major features of a subject. However, relying solely on tracing can result in a flat, lifeless image. In this guide we will explore how to refine a traced sketch freehand, enhancing the details, adding depth, and preparing the sketch for the painting stage. By the end of this tutorial, you’ll understand how to transform a traced sketch into a dynamic, polished artwork ready for the next step.
When an artist traces an image, they capture the basic outlines but often miss out on critical details like shadows, textures, and fine forms. This is where freehand refinement comes into play. It allows you to go beyond the rigid lines of a traced image and add life to the drawing.
In this tutorial, I’ll demonstrate how to refine a traced sketch freehand based on my work on a sketch of Isaiah or Hezekiah, which was originally traced. The traced lines were helpful to get the basic structure down quickly, but the freehand refinements were crucial for adding the depth, shading, and detail needed for an intercessory prayer-themed illustration.
Hands are complex and full of intricate details like tendons, veins, and shadows, which are often missed in a simple traced sketch. To refine the hands in this illustration, start by adding shading to differentiate the forms. Pay attention to areas where light hits the fingers and where shadows fall.
The face is another area that greatly benefits from freehand refinement. In this particular sketch, I had traced the basic lines of the face, but it still needed significant work to look convincing. I added texture to the beard and refined the nose’s shading to give it a more three-dimensional appearance.
One of the challenges with tracing is that it can sometimes lead to slightly distorted proportions. Freehand refinement allows you to adjust these proportions for greater accuracy. For instance, I changed the hairstyle in this sketch to make it look less like myself (since I modeled for it) and more like the character I intended to depict.
Clothing, especially in historical or religious illustrations, requires careful attention to the way fabric drapes and folds. In the sketch of Isaiah/Hezekiah, I added shading to the clothing to give it volume and ensure it looked appropriate for the era being depicted.
As you refine your traced sketch freehand, don’t be afraid to go back and rework certain areas that don’t feel quite right. For example, I added a scroll to the hands to illustrate a significant moment in the story of Hezekiah, when he spread a threatening letter before the Lord and prayed for deliverance.
Refining a traced sketch freehand is an essential step for any artist who wants to create dynamic, realistic artwork. The tracing process can save time, but it’s the freehand refinement that brings the sketch to life. By focusing on shading, texture, and proportion, you can take a basic traced image and transform it into a detailed and accurate foundation for painting.
Just like building a house requires a solid foundation, a painting requires a well-executed sketch. The time and effort you put into refining your sketch freehand will set the stage for a more successful painting, allowing you to focus on color and brushwork rather than correcting mistakes.
Refining a traced sketch freehand involves improving proportions, adding textures, and sharpening details to ensure the sketch serves as a strong foundation for painting. This process is especially useful in achieving realistic, dynamic compositions. Remember that tracing is just the starting point; it’s the freehand refinement that makes the difference. Keep practicing your freehand sketching skills to improve your artistic abilities and bring more depth to your work.
If you’re looking for more instructional videos on how to improve your acrylic painting, visit www.realisticacrylic.com for more tutorials and check out my free courses here.
I’d love to hear your thoughts about this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.
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Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me. I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.
Yours for Better Portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
In this video, I’ll show you how to paint realistic reflections, using two complementary colors in addition to white, and getting the shape of the reflection just right. Then this originally was a BONUS video in the Acrylic Portrait Painting Challenge Master Class, now available in the All-Access Membership at Realistic Acrylic Portrait School.
Even though it is technically over, you can take the Acrylic Portrait Painting Challenge (it’s FREE!) and paint along with us! 8 master class lessons are posted to help you paint a portrait you can be proud of!
REGISTER TODAY. The challenge is ongoing, something you can do at your own pace. It’s not too late to enter! After you join, I’ll send you the supplies list and reference photos to paint from.
Register for the Challenge!Questions? Suggestions? Thoughts? Let me know, below in the comments. Please share your sketches in our Facebook group and share this post with your friends!
Read more about how to paint a portrait that you can surely be proud of!
I’d love to hear your thoughts about this video. Please share it with your friends and family. Let me know if you have any further questions. I’ll greatly help you.
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this tutorial and watch the video. That means a lot to me. I hope you find it very helpful in your portrait painting.
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!