Learn the art of layering to create stunning backgrounds
Creating depth in your acrylic portrait backgrounds can transform your artwork from flat and uninviting to vibrant and lifelike. This comprehensive guide will explore techniques and tips that can be utilized to effectively build depth in your acrylic paintings. Through careful layering, color mixing, and thoughtful brushwork, your backgrounds will not only enhance your portraits but also engage viewers and add emotional resonance.
Acrylic portrait painting of three children, by artist Matt Philleo, 16 x 20, acrylic on canvas
Understanding Depth in Art
Depth in art refers to the illusion of three-dimensionality on a two-dimensional surface. It involves creating a sense of space, distance, and perspective. In acrylic portrait painting, the background plays a crucial role in establishing depth and can significantly influence the viewer’s perception of the subject.
Techniques for Building Depth
1. Layering with Glazes
Layering is one of the most effective techniques for creating depth. It involves applying transparent layers of paint over one another, allowing underlying colors and textures to show through.
Start with a Base Layer: Begin with a solid background color that will serve as your foundation. A mid-tone color can be effective for this purpose.
Apply Transparent Glazes: Use a mix of acrylic paint and a glazing medium to create transparent layers. Ultramarine blue and raw umber dark can be mixed to achieve subtle variations.
By layering these glazes, different values can be developed. The key is to allow each layer to dry before applying the next, which helps to create a sense of depth through the transparency and complexity of the colors.
2. Creating Gradation
Gradation can be used to suggest distance and atmosphere in your backgrounds. This can be achieved through both blending and glazing techniques.
Segmented Areas: Instead of blending wet colors, use segmented areas of glazing to create smooth transitions. By touching certain areas while leaving others untouched, a subtle blend can be achieved. This method provides a more natural appearance and enhances the depth of the painting.
Use of Color Temperature: Varying color temperature can add to the perception of depth. Cool colors, such as blues and greens, can recede in the background, while warmer tones tend to come forward. For instance, using a cooler ultramarine blue in the background while maintaining warmer tones in the foreground can create a compelling contrast.
3. Employing Contrast
Contrast is essential in making your subject stand out against the background. By darkening background areas, the foreground subjects will naturally become more pronounced.
Darkening Techniques: When applying darker glazes, consider how the light interacts with your subject. By ensuring that the background is darker than the portrait, the subjects will appear more luminous.
This can be particularly effective when using glazes, as they dry quickly, allowing for rapid layering without mudding colors. As highlighted in the video, the layering properties of acrylics can be leveraged to achieve a depth that feels rich and engaging.
4. Incorporating Patterns and Textures
Adding textures or patterns can create interest in the background and contribute to the overall depth of the painting.
Marble-like Backgrounds: A painterly, marble-like appearance can be achieved by varying brush strokes and layering colors. Short, diagonal strokes can create a textured effect that draws the viewer’s eye without overwhelming the portrait.
This not only enhances depth but also gives the background a dynamic quality that complements the portrait.
Tips for Effective Backgrounds
Use a Limited Palette: A limited color palette can help maintain harmony in your painting. This also makes it easier to create depth, as the colors will blend and layer more cohesively.
Experiment with Brush Techniques: Different brush types and strokes can create varying effects. Experimenting with short strokes, glazing, and layering will allow for discovering unique methods of adding depth.
Balance Between Foreground and Background: Always consider the balance of colors and values between your foreground and background. This ensures that your subject remains the focal point while the background supports its presence.
Stay Patient: Building depth takes time. Allow layers to dry completely between applications to achieve the best results.
Conclusion
Building depth in your acrylic portrait backgrounds is a rewarding endeavor that can significantly enhance your artwork. By employing layering techniques, creating gradation, utilizing contrast, and incorporating textures, your backgrounds will not only support your subjects but also engage viewers on a deeper level.
As you continue to practice and refine these techniques, your portraits will come to life, showcasing the beauty of depth in acrylic painting. The journey of learning and experimenting is essential for any artist, and through consistent practice, remarkable improvements will be evident in your work.
Let me know how this helps! If you have questions on your portrait painting, feel free to contact me ([email protected])
Yours for better portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
Would you like to learn portrait painting from me in person?
I’d like to let you know that I’ll be teaching at the Chippewa Valley Cultural Association (Heyde Center for the Arts, Chippewa Falls, WI) on March 12-13, 10:30am-3:30pm, a two-day intensive acrylic portrait painting workshop. The class size is limited to 10 people to make sure I can give each student feedback and individual instruction. For more details, visit my events page here…https://realisticacrylic.com/paint-an-acrylic-portrait-with-me-in-2019/
Would you like to learn portrait painting from me in person?
I’d like to let you know that I’ll be teaching at the Chippewa Valley Cultural Association (Heyde Center for the Arts, Chippewa Falls, WI) on March 12-13, 10:30am-3:30pm, a two-day intensive acrylic portrait painting workshop. The class size is limited to 10 people to make sure I can give each student feedback and individual instruction.
Learn more/ register by clicking the image below…
Learn how to paint realistic acrylic portraits with a two-day intensive , held at the Heyde Center in Chippewa Falls, WI workshop by artist Matt Philleo on March 12-13, 10:30-3:30pm
If you live or will be in the St. Paul/ Minneapolis-Eau Claire, WI area around that time and would like to learn how to paint with me, I would love to see you then!
Or maybe you know someone that may be interested. Could you please let them know about this? Thank you so much! Let me know if you have any questions.
Yours for better portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
Realistic Acrylic Portrait School, awarded 10 Top Acrylic Painting Blogs for 2019, by Feedspot.
Just prior to Christmas, I finished this portrait of a local engineer.
Creating a realistic acrylic portrait can be a rewarding experience, especially when utilizing the glazing technique. This method involves layering transparent paints to build depth and luminosity in your artwork. In this tutorial, a step-by-step guide is provided to help artists of all levels achieve impressive results in an 8 x 10 portrait.
Understanding the Glazing Technique
The glazing technique is foundational in creating depth and realism in acrylic painting. It is characterized by the application of thin, transparent layers of color, allowing the underlying layers to shine through. This method is often compared to photography, where an image starts light and gradually gains depth.
Materials Required
Before beginning, ensure that the following materials are prepared:
Acrylic paints: Ultramarine blue, brownish tone (raw umber or dark), and skin tones
Clear acrylic matte medium
Brushes: Small round brushes, flat brushes, and a small detail brush
Palette for mixing colors
Canvas (8 x 10 inches recommended)
Water for rinsing brushes
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Preparing the Background
To commence, a light glaze is applied to the background using clear acrylic matte medium. This initial layer serves as a foundation for subsequent colors and adds a soft, ethereal quality to the painting.
Step 2: Adding Foreground Details
Once the background is set, the first layer of details can be added. Ultramarine blue is used to paint the hat, while the brownish tone is applied to create depth in the background. Care is taken to let these layers dry before continuing with additional details.
Step 3: Building Up Layers
The glazing technique thrives on layering. After the initial foreground details have dried, the focus shifts to the face and scarf. By layering thin glazes, the desired colors are built up gradually, allowing the light to penetrate through the layers.
Tip: Work from foreground to background to maintain focus on the subject. This approach helps keep details sharp and defined.
Step 4: Detailing the Features
Attention is drawn to the finer details in the face, such as the eyes and lips. Using various skin tones, nuances are added to create dimension. This is achieved by carefully layering pinkish tones on the cheeks and around the eyes, emphasizing features like eyebrows and the mustache with darker shades.
Technique: When applying glazes, it is essential to work thinly. The use of a clear acrylic medium mixed with paint ensures translucency, allowing for subtle color variations.
Step 5: Refining and Smoothing
As the painting progresses, the need to refine details becomes evident. Skip around the canvas, working on different sections to ensure balance and harmony in the overall composition. Smoothing out areas with a gentle hand helps in creating a realistic appearance.
Tip: Varying brush sizes and techniques can significantly enhance texture. Larger brushes are suitable for broader areas, while smaller brushes are ideal for intricate details.
Step 6: Enhancing Realism
To achieve a realistic finish, darker tones are added under the chin and in shadowed areas, enhancing the sense of depth. Highlights are strategically placed to simulate the effect of light on the face and clothing.
Technique: As the final layers are applied, incorporating more opaque white paint helps achieve smoother transitions between colors.
Step 7: Final Touches
At the later stages of the painting, I continue to add details and shading. Varying line thickness and texture are key components to realism. Then moves back and forth between different areas of the portrait, ensuring that the final touches are cohesive and enhance the overall image.
Step 8: Signing the Artwork
After all the details have been finalized, the painting is signed. This not only signifies the completion of the work but also adds a personal touch to the artwork.
Conclusion
This step-by-step guide on painting a realistic acrylic portrait using the glazing technique showcases how layered approaches can bring an image to life. By utilizing transparency and careful detailing, you can create stunning, lifelike portraits that capture the essence of their subjects.
Whether you are an experienced artist or just starting, mastering the glazing technique will enhance your acrylic painting skills.
Additional Tips and Techniques
Experiment with Colors: Don’t hesitate to mix different colors to achieve unique skin tones and shades.
Practice Patience: Building up layers takes time, but the results are worth the effort.
Use Reference Images: Having a clear reference will guide your color choices and proportions, making the process smoother.
By following these steps, you can enhance your painting techniques and create stunning, realistic portraits. Embrace the glazing method and enjoy the process of bringing your artistic visions to life!
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
It is my privilege every week to judge entries for the Realistic Acrylic Portrait School Facebook Contest.
The best 5-6 images get chosen to be included on the Header Image of our 6,000+ member group. But why do I choose the portraits that make it to the top?
In this brief video, I’ll go over the reasons why I awarded these portraits the prizes they received. I also discuss what could be done to improve them.
You can learn from these tips on what makes for a good portrait and how to improve your own.
Also, if you aren’t currently a member of the Realistic Acrylic Portrait School Facebook group (it’s free to join), you should be! Here’s why…
Get help on your portrait from myself and fellow artists when you feel stuck.
Share your artwork with others and get inspired to paint more, by seeing what your fellow artists are doing.
Enter a portrait into the weekly contest, get your work featured, and win a prize!
See you inside the group! Let me know how these tips help, and of course, if you have any questions.
Yours for better portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
Unlocking the secrets to depth and color in acrylic painting
Acrylic painting offers artists a versatile medium, allowing for various techniques to create depth, shading, and vibrant colors. Among these techniques, the glazing method stands out for its ability to build up layers of color, enhancing the painting’s visual complexity. In this blog post, we will delve into how to do layers with the glazing technique, exploring color selection, layering strategies, and tips to achieve a professional finish.
I have a student named Holly, who has just started painting portraits in acrylic. She is currently working on one of her brother, and she was unsure of how to continue after beginning the glazing process. With her permission, I’m going to share her portrait with you. We all know what it feels like to get stuck during painting, especially when starting out…
Here’s her questions…
Hi Matt,
Thank you for your advice and the progress photos you sent of your artwork. That really helped. I’ve watched a lot of the student videos and I’m trying to apply everything to my painting. I feel like it looks kind of terrible so far so maybe I’m not doing it right. I’m worried about painting any more shadow in on his face because it looks bad – especially his eyes. I definitely feel like I don’t know what I’m doing. Haha. I don’t know what to do about his hair or face. And the white shirt with the dark creases. And the brass jacket buttons. I’m following your list of paint colors to use for the skin tones off of your skin tone video and that is very helpful. But I just feel kind of lost as to the layering process. For instance, for the face, I don’t know how many layers of shadows I’m supposed to do before I move onto layers of midtones. And how many layers of midtones do I do before I move onto highlights? And when I’m painting the midtones, do I paint over the shadow areas as well? Or only paint on the midtone areas?
Thank you so much for your help!
Holly
Here is my answer to her questions, in a video format. I used Photoshop to show her digitally, how she would paint with an actual paintbrush. My goal was to create a roadmap she could follow to ease the confusion in the painting process and gain confidence for what to do next.
What is Glazing?
Glazing is a technique where a thin, transparent layer of paint is applied over a dried layer of paint. This process can be repeated multiple times, gradually building up the desired color and intensity. The final appearance of the artwork results from the interplay of colors beneath the glaze, creating a sense of depth and luminosity that cannot be achieved with opaque paint alone.
Choosing Colors for Shadows, Midtones, and Highlights
One of the most critical aspects of mastering the glazing technique is selecting the right colors for different areas of your painting. This can be particularly challenging when working with shadows, midtones, and highlights.
1. Shadows
When creating shadows, it is essential to choose colors that will blend well with the underlying layers. The shadows should be darker but also retain a sense of warmth or coolness depending on the lighting in your scene. For instance, using a mixture of raw umber dark and a hint of blue can create realistic shadows, providing depth without overpowering the other colors.
2. Midtones
Midtones serve as the bridge between the shadows and highlights. It is essential to mix colors that complement both extremes. For instance, when painting skin tones, a blend of yellow ochre and a touch of red can create a balanced midtone that will seamlessly transition between the shadows and highlights.
3. Highlights
Highlights add life to your painting, drawing the viewer’s eye. To achieve this, consider using lighter versions of your base colors mixed with titanium white or a light yellow. However, ensure that these highlights are still somewhat transparent to maintain the glazing effect.
Layering Process in the Glazing Technique
Once you have selected your colors, it’s time to start layering them using the glazing technique. Here’s a step-by-step approach to help you navigate the process effectively:
Step 1: Prepare Your Canvas
Begin by preparing your canvas with a base layer of acrylic paint. This initial layer should be dry before you start glazing. It can be beneficial to work on a toned canvas, which can help unify the painting’s overall tone.
Step 2: Apply the First Glaze
Using a soft brush, apply your first glaze. This layer should be thin and transparent. A mixture of matte medium with your chosen paint can help achieve the desired transparency. Start with your shadow color, working it into the areas where you want to establish depth.
Step 3: Let It Dry
Allow your glaze to dry completely before adding additional layers. This is crucial, as working on a wet layer can disturb your previous work and muddy your colors.
Step 4: Build Up Midtones
Once the first layer is dry, repeat the glazing process with your midtone color. Apply it over the areas where you want to create form and dimension, using a clean brush to blend the edges.
Step 5: Add Highlights
After your midtones have dried, apply your highlight color using the same glazing technique. This layer should be more transparent than your midtones and should enhance the overall brightness of your painting without losing depth.
Step 6: Repeat as Necessary
The glazing process can take several layers to achieve the desired effect. Don’t be afraid to go back and forth between shadows, midtones, and highlights, building up layers until you reach your goal. Each application should add depth and richness to the final piece.
Tips and Techniques for Effective Glazing
Use High-Quality Paints: The quality of your paint can significantly affect your glazing results. Invest in artist-grade acrylics to ensure better transparency and mixing capabilities.
Maintain a Light Touch: When applying glazes, use a gentle hand. It’s easier to add more layers than to remove excess paint.
Test on a Palette: Before applying any glaze to your painting, test your colors on a palette or scrap canvas. This will give you a better idea of how they will interact.
Layer Order Matters: Always start with the darkest colors and work towards the lightest. This approach helps maintain control over the overall value and temperature of your painting.
Keep Brushes Clean: Regularly clean your brushes to avoid muddying your colors. Using separate brushes for each color can also be beneficial.
Be Patient: Glazing is a slow process that requires patience. Allow each layer to dry fully before proceeding to the next to achieve the best results.
Practice: The more you practice glazing, the more comfortable you will become with the technique. Experiment with different colors and layering styles to find what works best for you.
Conclusion
The glazing technique is an invaluable method for any acrylic painter looking to enhance the depth and vibrancy of their work. By understanding how to effectively layer colors, choose the right tones for shadows, midtones, and highlights, and employing the right techniques, artists can achieve stunning results that will captivate viewers.
As you embark on your glazing journey, remember to take your time and enjoy the process. Each layer contributes to the overall beauty of your painting, revealing the complexity of color and depth that acrylics can offer. Happy painting!
Let me know how this video helps! Does it clear up the process at all for beginning a portrait using the glazing technique? Let me know.
In the meantime, many blessings to you and your portrait painting.
All the best,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
One of the most important aspects of acrylic portrait painting is setting up your palette.
It’s often overlooked, but having a palette setup that works well for you can minimize frustration, increase productivity, reduce paint costs, and even enhance accuracy in your portrait.
Recently, an artist asked me how I set up my palette. Of course, there’s many ways to do it.
I’m not going to say the way I do it is the right way, but it works for me. And it may work for you as well.
I use a traditional wood palette–about 14″ wide and 18″ long. I customized it a bit by adding a lip to the edge. That keeps my matte medium from dripping off the side. The lip is thick chipboard about 2″ in width that I bent and glued onto the wood. Then I sealed it with gloss medium to keep the moisture from warping it.
Let me help you get started on your new portrait today…
Before I start a new painting, I put aluminum foil over the entire surface, and attach it securely to back of the palette with clear packaging tape. It holds very well.
Then I lay out my paints.
I keep them wet as I can with a spray bottle of water while I work, spraying them about every 15 minutes or so.
When my mixing area gets too full of paint, I add a fresh piece of aluminum foil over the area, folding it over slightly to conform to the rounded shape of the palette. The previous layer of wet paint holds it down. This way I am not wasting paint. All my main colors on the palette remain until my painting is done or they dry up.
I throw the discarded, soiled pieces of aluminum foil away in a bag and then I get paid for them when I recycle them with my aluminum cans. And it doesn’t pollute the environment either!
Here is a video where I explain further how to set this palette up…
Question: What do you use for your palette…and why?
Enjoy your portrait painting and let me know if I can help you in any way.
All the best,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
Sometimes as portrait artists, we are called to capture the memory of a lost loved one. It’s a very special thing, a privilege that we given, to be able to do that for someone.
I don’t take it lightly.
Recently, I just finished up a commissioned portrait for a friend, whose pastor has recently passed away. This is an 11″ x 14″ acrylic on canvas. I want to show you the entire process, but I’m going to start in this post with just the sketch and first couple layers. Then, we’ll just add on with more steps to this same post.
Many of my blog readers prefer more video content rather than written, so that’s how I’m going to do it here.
Hope you enjoyed this acrylic portrait painting tutorial. As always, let me know how I can help you with your portraits or if you have a question. Leave me a comment below!
Be blessed in your painting,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
To create a realistic portrait you need a lot of different elements all working together.
The main three elements are accurate form, value, and color.
All of these elements are tied together, and even overlap a bit. Today, I want to show how form and value work together, and how you need to represent value accurately to portray correct form.
One of my students recently asked to have his portrait critiqued, while in the sketch stage. As I was recording his critique, the idea of capturing value to portray a realistic likeness came up.
In other words, if you want the person you’re painting to look like them, you have to pay close attention to the shadows. It’s just as important to capture these shadows as it is to draw the features such as the eyes, nose, mouth, etc. with correct placement, proportions, and shape. The ability to see the shadows on a face is vitally important to create the illusion of three-dimensionality on the canvas. You need to be able to see the inherent shape of a shadow from your reference photo–its hard edge and soft edge.
On a photograph that can be hard to discern.
You have an almost unlimited array of values with micro-nuances that can make it very challenging to see the “big picture” of the main shapes of the shadows. But if you can train yourself to see those main, abstract shapes you will go a long way to being able to draw and paint realistically.
By the way, the edges are defined not only by shadows, but differences in value due to the actual value (light and dark) of the objects themselves. (For example, the contrast between the man’s flesh tone and white suit. Or, on a smaller level, the difference between his black beard on his dark brown skin.
There are borders to all the shadows and values Your job is to see the most obvious edge, pick a line, and define it.
Watch the video below and I’ll show you what I’m discussing here, using this student’s portrait sketch (supplied with his permission) as an example.
Mastering the ability to see shapes within the shadows takes practice. But it all starts with being aware of the need to do so. As you hone in this skill, you’ll see these shapes all over the place, learn how to paint what you see, and your portraits will come alive with realism!. Visit other free tutorial here.
Yours for realistic acrylic portraits,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
Painting the mouth, especially the teeth, in an acrylic portrait can be tricky.
It’s one of the hardest parts of the face to get right, but it is so important. Teeth are not easy to paint, because of the very subtle shapes, shades of color, and nuances you have to capture correctly to convey a convincing reality of a beautiful smile.
Today, I’m going to show you how to paint realistic teeth using my Old Master’s glazing technique.
1. Using a small round brush grab a little bit of napthol red off your palette…
2. Then a little bit of titanium white…
3. Mix into a warmer color like raw sienna, and dilute with a small amount of matte medium…
4. And then add the shadows just above the teeth, in the crevices between them, on top of the previously painted gums (that have just a light pink glaze on them)…
There’s a lot more! Watch it all here…
The 12-Minute Video Tutorial
(Instruction on painting teeth starts at 3:30 in the video)
And here is the completed portrait of my wife…
Hope you enjoyed this post, and have a blessed day,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
Today, I’d like to show you how I painted a montage portrait–several images put together into one design. This is one of my favorite portraits from several years ago, a 16″ x 20″ acrylic on canvas.
This was to be given as a gift from the mother to her son and his fiance as a unique wedding gift. The idea was to incorporate a large image of them, a picture of them with their dog, and then a scripture verse in the background, that would go with the marriage theme.
Here’s how I did it.
Step 1: The Sketch
After getting my photos together from the client, I did a layout.
This was before I started using the grid method, so I sketched it with a projector and pencil, following the outlines of the photographs closely. The projector sometimes gets things wrong, so you have to go back, double-check your lines and refine accordingly.
Step 2: The Foundation with Light Glazes
The purpose of this step is to quickly establish the tonality of the portrait by getting the colors in the right place. Secondarily, I want to set up my values, by creating immediate contrast between light and dark. I start attacking the darkest values first, using cooler colors like ultramarine blue, raw umber dark and dioxazine purple to create a rich, nuanced black.
This way, when it’s all done, and the viewer takes a close look at the painting, it won’t be flat. You will be able to sense the folds of fabric, and contours around the body of the person within.
My goal is always to create a painting that has immediate impact, but also rewards the viewer for taking a closer look.
For the subjects, I use raw umber dark for the darker values within the hair, raw sienna for the lighter values, and burnt sienna, raw sienna, raw umber dark, and alizarine crimson for the skin tones.
Of course, as with virtually all my painting, the pigment is mixed with a generous portion of matte medium to thin it out, and create the translucent depth that’s similar to the Old Master’s techniques.
Notice how for the trees and background I use a light green, made up of phthalo green, raw sienna, and a little indian yellow. It will give it a lot of luminosity as the light shines through the layers.
Step 3: Darkening the Deep and Mid-Tone Values
Now that I have the foundation, I go back and add several layers to all the areas within the painting. But mostly, I want to bring the darkest values to about 80% of their full strength. This will give me something to work with as I move the other values in the picture in accord.
I could just go and use full strength pigment, but it gives the painting a nicer finish to darken everything slowly. In addition to that, it gives me the ability to precisely blend even within the dark areas.
Is a black shirt just straight black?
No.
Not when there’s light shining on it. We don’t want to use straight black. Otherwise how can you paint the shadows in representing the beginning and end of arms, chest, waist, and all the appropriate wrinkles within the fabric? Instead we get it dark enough and leave room for the shadows.
And by the way, ivory black is not the darkest color you can get. You’ll get an even deeper black with dioxazine purple, aliazarine crimson, phthalo blue and raw umber dark mixed together.
Why not just settle for black? Well, it’s the same reason why HDTVs boast of having higher contrast. I used to sell LCD TVs years ago when they first came out on the market. They were terrible. The darkest values on the screen were just grey. Therefore the lightest values were not very impressive, and so the whole picture looked weak.
With a painting, you will get a way more dramatic effect if you can use really dark values to set of your lighter areas by contrast. It just reminds me of the way the darkness of sin makes the righteousness of God through Jesus Christ that much more glorious. You have to have some darkness to set off the light. Enough said.
Step 4: Adding Nuances to the Faces
At this point here, it’s time to turn my attention to the most important part of the portrait: the people. And especially their faces. In the previous step, I blocked in the darkest shadows within their faces, but now, I want to add some tie-in values. Those are the tones that bridge the gap between the lightest and darkest values.
So I keep the ones I put down as a good foundation. But now, I’m adding more on top, glazing over translucently, so the bottom layers still remain. That’s how we do this with acrylic–with layers.
I feel like their features–the important ones–like the eyes, eyebrows, nose, and mouth need some work. So I begin to darken them, adding detail wherever it needs it.
It’s good to remember the old adage, “Rome wasn’t built in day.” You have see the big picture and slowly comform your painting to the reference photos. Patience is key. For example, I darken the eyebrows as one solid mass of color–just one shade, but I know after this layer dries, I’ll come back to it again–and again, if need be. Then I will go in and darken just a portion of the eyebrow, while leaving the other part with whatever I did in the previous layer.
By doing this, I can suggest that the eyebrow hairs are thicker in a certain area, or the eye sockets are creating a shadow over that portion. That’s all you have to do. You don’t have to get crazy with drawing each individual hair. That actually detracts from your realism. Just hint at it and let the viewer’s mind’s eye interpret the rest and create the reality for you.
Step 5: Building Up More Nuances Everywhere
In this step, I keep on adding layers to the faces: more layers of alizarine crimson, raw sienna, and some titanium white. Using a average size flat brush (3/8 or smaller) I keep adding nuances to the faces. When I start a portrait I use my largest brushes: typically 1″ or even larger. But as I get toward the end of the project I switch to smaller.
Why?
The smaller brush is good not only for detail work, but also those precise areas of nuances–the subtle transition of shading from the cheek to the area below the eye socket. Or the fleshy area under the chin and neck where the light is reflecting from another illuminated surface.
In this portrait, that is happening: we have the woman’s illuminated chest area reflecting as a secondary light source onto her chin. And so with that, I have to make sure I don’t paint the shadow underneath too dark. Since both the man and woman are outside, it makes sense that the light will really illuminate them well and the shadows won’t get very dark, except on the darker clothing and hair.
Another area I want to touch on is the Bible, which shows the scripture verse. That’s important part of the painting. I chose to just suggest the text by creating random out-of-focus lines. But the actual verse, “Love never fails” from the famous Corinthians 13 passage, is clearly in focus.
To paint something this detailed on canvas, you have to really make sure you have a nice detail brush, like 1/0 or smaller round, twisted to a point, with very fluid paint. Mist your palette and make sure the paint is about as thin as it can go before getting watery, and it will glide right over the canvas.
It makes painting text a whole lot easier.
Finally, I went over the greenery of the background trees and grass, just adding more nuances. I used phthalo blue, ultramarine blue, and raw sienna for the darker shades. Once you have your initial light green set up, it really sets it off beautifully.
In addition, I painted the dog’s eyes, using brown tones to give it some contrast. I still left the areas representing reflections quite light.
Step 6: Highlights and Advanced Blending
The portrait, at this stage, is starting to look done, but there’s still a lot of work to do. One of the things that can really enhance the realism is using highlights. Although I do like to leave a lot of areas of the canvas untouched for creating my lighter values, it is nice to go back in with some opaque highlights for certain areas.
I feel it gives me the best of both worlds: Glazing is fantastic for building depth and achieving fine gradations in shading, but it creates a roughness that must be overcome with some opaque layers. The trick is to use them just in a few areas.
The hair is one example. Here, I go back in and add just a little titanium white toned down with raw sienna to add the look of diffused light reflecting just at the top of the woman’s silky smooth, straight hair. I also go in and add some slightly darker highlights to the man’s textured short haircut. I already have the base color and value down. Now as I add these highlights, it will quickly change add depth to that area.
Also, I add detail to their teeth. We want to make sure that we don’t overdo it though. We want to use just enough of a light amber grey to suggest that there is separation between them. Raw umber dark mixed with titanium white and thinned by matte medium) is a fantastic way to create shadows for the teeth–in the right value and color.
Once I have the teeth darkened slightly, I can add even more depth by going over with a pin-point highlight of pure titanium white. With this, we just suggest reflections of light over the moist teeth. After it dries, add a tiny glaze of indian yellow, thinned with medium and it will give that white a bit more warmth and luminosity.
You can also do this on the gums. For some people, depending on the structure of their mouth, and the lighting, the gums will catch more of those highlights than the teeth. That was the case for this portrait.
Step 7: Adding the Details
Because this is a collage–or montage–portrait, there’s a lot different elements that need attention. So just when you think you are done, there’s just a little more.
Now, it’s time to add in some more detail to this couple’s background portrait. I noticed that the woman appeared to be looking away from the camera, but by adding just a few darker spots within her eyes on the right side, we suggest that she is looking toward us. It’s just a small amount of work, but it pays dividends in creating that visual connection with the viewer.
It’s time to add the long blades of grass in. I already have the base tones in. It’s just a matter of putting in some darker shadows in angular shapes, and then going over with highlights. Phthalo blue, ultramarine blue, raw sienna, even some yellow ochre and titanium white is what’s used, from darkest to lightest in capturing the effect.
Moving to the left of that, I tackle the jeans for both the man and woman, using the same two blues on my palette. I tend to use ultramarine blue for the darker values and phthalo blue for the lighter. For the darkest shadows I add in some diox purple and raw umber dark so it doesn’t get too bluish.
The Final Painting
With some more nuances here and there, I can call the painting done!
I hope you enjoyed this post and found it valuable. If you have any questions on the techniques used to create this portrait, I would love to help.
Have a blessed day,
P.S. Did you find this post helpful or encouraging? If so, send it on ahead! Let others know with the share buttons below. I’d love to hear your comments. Thank you so much! Also, do you have a question on acrylic portrait painting you’d like answered? Let me know, and I’d be happy to help!
